I just bought a set and I was hoping somebody could post a picture of thier front WE shocks near the sway bar bracket. The reason is because I had to swap the sway bar tie rod to the outboard side of the bracket. Did I do it wrong?

Also. I'm new to these ressy shocks and I'm wondering if the valve on the res is for adding air or if it is ONLY for the initial charge of the shock during manufacturing.

I'm heading to Florence next week so does anybody have a good place to start at dialing them in? Currently the height is set at the original height set up by WE.

I wish they had a mark for the adjustment knobs in order to set them all the same to at least know where you started.


Thanks!

Florence Kentucky ?

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Nah. Florence, OR. I'm from WA.

Hey, my sister lives near Florence! The Florence Mall Y'all!


Actually, she lives in Erlanger, but same difference.

I say leave the front sway bar off for sure ... it handles better and makes better use of those shocks essentially ... unless you know your application requires it. Mine is off as well as most others who do long travel or shock upgrades. I recommend cutting it out right after the bend before the bracket that holds it on one side ... than pull the rest of it out from the other side ... its a beefy bar that weighs a few pounds ... handles better and less weight IMHO . You can just leave it in disconnected too if you think you might want to go back to it.

Not a shock expert either but that resi is nitrogen I think. It might be necessary to add more later, etc. or maybe even change the pressure in it to effect the ride. Not totally sure though.

Jack up the RZR, back off the large "nut" that compresses the spring so you know both sides are the same as a starting point. Crank it back down by hand so atleast there is tension/some compression on the spring as a starting point. Mine has several holes in the nut for a spanner wrench (not necessary) I use to count as I am cranking it back down ... I started off with 15 of these cranked down (approx 2 to 3 full turns if you want to look at it that way). Drive it and see if you like the height and how firm the ride is. Crank it down more for additional height and firmness as desired/needed. You dont want to crank it down extremely far as then the springs will bind/hit each other and not allow use of the full travel.

For the shock turn the dial all the way to the slowest or softest setting. Increase until it is firm enough. Crank up a bunch when you want to jump it.

If the above two dont ge tyou what you want then its time to have them internally revalvled and/or spring changes.

Good luck ... its kinda a crap shoot and you jus thave to play with it alot.

Maybe Johnny will jump back in if I mis-stated anything as he knows his stuff.

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Do the Walker Evans allow for more suspension travel, do they effect ride height? And if so by how much. I am looking at getting some shocks for my stock RZR. Looking for the best shock for a stock RZR.

Guess I will type this out...

Don't mount the sway bar link on the outside. I tried that and they do not stay. Mount them inside but keep them loose, as you will want to toe the mounts out a bit to clear the reservoirs. I had to buy a longer bolt and add 4 (I think) washers for the front lower sway bar/shock mount as no matter what I did the sway bar link bottom boot hit the lower shock retainer at full extension (on the jack). Therefore adding 4 washers gave it the clearance it needed. You do have to buy a longer bolt than the one they supplied back in Dec-Jan. Someone needs to call WER on this. Once you have the sway bar link bolted in the bottom, toe out the top bracket so the inside nut does not rub on the reservoir. You will have about 1/8"-1/4" before the angle starts to bind the sway bar link. I'd leave the top bolt for the sway bar link loose, drop the tires on the ground and bounce the RZR with you body weight to make sure those sway bar links don't bind up. They should settle in. Then jack the front end back up and tighten the top bolt for the sway bar link.

Adjusting the shocks retainer. This can be done by hand once the front or rear is off the ground or 90% of the weight is off the tires. Simply turn the springs with both hands and the top trainer will tighten. Count the threads and make the fronts the same on each side. Then count the rears and make them the same. They should be from the factory. Most guys are adding 5-10+ threads front a rear. An easy way to count a 360-degree turn is to make one of the holes at the top black with a black marker. Turn until that hole lines up with the reservoir. Then to add a thread just turn until you see the marked "black hole". My RZR is not in my garage but I ended up with like 16 threads in front and 18 in the rear. I wanted 11" of ground clearance, which I'm 1/4" shy of. (Note. I do have 26” Bighorns.)

GL

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RZR My 1/2" Longer Lower Bolt. on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

I also installed a 1/2 longer lower bolt (grade 8) and utilized the stock and WER spacers. The upper sway bar end link rotates if you loosen the bolt to help clear the shock spring.

Everyones shock settings will differ according to type of riding, ground clearance and what you like as far as feel in a shock.

BigSilly450X's settings are about where I run mine. The settings will also be affected by sprung weight, IE passengers, cargo, etc. I use the compression dampening adjuster to account for weight variations.