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Suspension setting for XP 1000

This is a discussion on Suspension setting for XP 1000 within the RZR XP 1000 forums, part of the General RZR category; After going for an afternoon ride in my sons XP 1000...I wanted to start a thread to talk about suspension settings for the XP 1000 ...


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Old October 13th, 2013, 12:33 AM   #1
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Suspension setting for XP 1000

After going for an afternoon ride in my sons XP 1000...I wanted to start a thread to talk about suspension settings for the XP 1000 using the stock springs.

This should include spring preload both front and rear...with zero preload being determined by raising the vehicles tries off the ground, and loosening the preload adjuster until there is no tension on the springs while just barely touching the top of the spring stack. I will measure and report the stock preload settings at the recommended spring lengths in the owners manual under zero load (tires off the ground)

Vehicle ride height both front and rear.

Clicker settings measured in number of clicks out from fully tightened (in)

When I first checked the clicker settings on my sons XP1, they were all set at 11 clicks out from full firm. After riding with him for awhile...I softened up the rear clickers to 15 clicks out, and felt that the ride was improved. But I also feel that the front springs are too soft and might need to have some more preload cranked into them. Polaris recommends to not exceed the factory preload by more than 25mm (1inch).

Also when I checked the ride height of the rig front and rear...it measured at 13" in the front (measured from where the front of the lower a-arms attach to the frame...and 12.5" in the rear (measured from the most rearward and lowest portion on the frame) Polaris claims a ground clearance of 13.5 inches for this vehicle. I was checking this because it seemed to hit obstacles on the trail that my XP 900 usually doesn't hit. My 900 had 13.5" in the front, and 13" in the rear with the original 26" inch ITP tires. It is now taller than that as I run 27.5" Pitbull Growlers. Something strange here since the 1000 is running on 29" tall tires.

Thoughts and comments?
Your preferred settings?

Thanks in advance,

Chris

Last edited by CB-BLR; October 14th, 2013 at 01:13 AM.
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Old October 13th, 2013, 01:20 AM   #2
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

After reading the XP1 manual...it seems that Polaris measures preload in an unusual way...referring to it as unloaded spring length... instead of measuring it from the zero preload point.

According to Polaris:

Stock front unloaded spring length is 17.11 inches
Stock rear unloaded spring length is 22.825 inches

I am going to change the front unloaded spring length to 16.5 inches...and see how that does.

Chris
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Old October 14th, 2013, 01:12 AM   #3
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

My son and I really liked increasing the preload on the front shocks by 1/2"

When I checked the measurements on the rear shocks...I discovered that they were not the same...and adjusted them both to the stock recommended length unloaded.

The best clicker setting so far is 12 out in the front...and 14 out on the rear.

The rig almost feels like I should take some preload out of the rear end...but I don't want to loose any ride height. It is sitting at 13" of clearance in the rear as it is...and the manual says that this thing is supposed to have 13.5 inches of clearance. With the front shock set at 16.5" of preload...the front end clearance is right at 14".

I am somewhat surprised that you guys aren't responding to this thread.

What suspension settings have you found that work?

Is there no interest in sharing suspension setup info?

Chris
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Old October 14th, 2013, 03:18 AM   #4
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

I'm wondering if not all Xp1000's shocks are set the same from the factory.
Might be what ever the Home Depot day laborer at W.E. set them at when putting them together,, not anything specific. Just assembled them and shipped them.

We're 4 CC turns or 4 turns up on the rear pre-load from stock and the machine is perfect. Didn't adjust anything else. The back did drop down noticeably.

We played with the reservoir knobs are they are very effective. One or 2 clicks either way and you most definitely feel the difference. We left them at the factory setting half way.

We have Elkas on several other vehicles and adjusting the knobs are like taking asprin,, nothing changes.
I think the Elkas reservoir knobs are decoration. They ride nice though.

The WE is a really good running shock, if ya get good ones from the factory.
Quality and how long they last damfino,, but they sure run good for stock OEM.
The $20K price tag for the XP1000 is starting to look more and more reasonable when ya look at what ya get.

I can't see putting a $4K set of Kings on the XP1K. Outstanding shocks for sure,, but just might be spending over-kill.

Last edited by Repeat Offender; October 14th, 2013 at 03:24 AM.
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Old October 14th, 2013, 03:29 AM   #5
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

Quote: Originally Posted by Repeat Offender View Post
I'm wondering if not all Xp1000's shocks are set the same from the factory.
Might be what ever the day laborer and W.E. set them at,, not anything specific. Just assembled them and shipped them.

We're 4 CC turns or 4 turns up on the rear pre-load from stock and the machine is perfect. Didn't adjust anything else. The back did drop down noticeably.

We played with the reservoir knobs are they are very effective. One or 2 clicks either way and you most definitely feel the difference.

We have Elkas on several other vehicles and adjusting the knobs are like taking asprin,, nothing changes.
I think the Elkas reservoir knobs are decoration.

The WE is a really good running shock, if ya get good one from the factory.
Quality and how long they last damfino,, but they sure run good for stock OEM.
They are coming set from the factory. I did the assembly on my 1000 myself. The assembly checklist had nothing about shock adjustment. Only mounting the reservoir.

I adjusted the rebound on the front shocks all the way out to soft, then in two clicks. Stock pre-load. Front is dialed perfect.

The rear I backed the pre-load off quite a bit. Not sure because i lost my mark, so I used a measuring tape to set them both. Back end is still real stiff and tends to pogo stick. Rebound settings are set the same as the front. I dont want to take out much more pre-load because I dont want to lose ground clearance. I am contemplating making these a true dual rate with the divider stop and different springs. it may help out some. Someone in a thread said you have to disassemble the shock to do that, but looking at it you dont have to. you just have to back the pre-load to release the tension on the spring and take off the lower spring perch. You can then screw on the divider collar and re-spring. If I cant get these WE dialed in, that is worth a shot.
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Old October 14th, 2013, 04:50 AM   #6
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

The rears seem off to me to. Agree the top spring is fully compressed with weight on them. I was shocked to see a floating divider between the two springs. I also wonder if a stronger top spring would help?


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Old October 14th, 2013, 05:56 AM   #7
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

Quote: Originally Posted by Krunch0 View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by Repeat Offender View Post
I'm wondering if not all Xp1000's shocks are set the same from the factory.
Might be what ever the day laborer and W.E. set them at,, not anything specific. Just assembled them and shipped them.

We're 4 CC turns or 4 turns up on the rear pre-load from stock and the machine is perfect. Didn't adjust anything else. The back did drop down noticeably.

We played with the reservoir knobs are they are very effective. One or 2 clicks either way and you most definitely feel the difference.

We have Elkas on several other vehicles and adjusting the knobs are like taking asprin,, nothing changes.
I think the Elkas reservoir knobs are decoration.

The WE is a really good running shock, if ya get good one from the factory.
Quality and how long they last damfino,, but they sure run good for stock OEM.
They are coming set from the factory. I did the assembly on my 1000 myself. The assembly checklist had nothing about shock adjustment. Only mounting the reservoir.

I adjusted the rebound on the front shocks all the way out to soft, then in two clicks. Stock pre-load. Front is dialed perfect.

The rear I backed the pre-load off quite a bit. Not sure because i lost my mark, so I used a measuring tape to set them both. Back end is still real stiff and tends to pogo stick. Rebound settings are set the same as the front. I dont want to take out much more pre-load because I dont want to lose ground clearance. I am contemplating making these a true dual rate with the divider stop and different springs. it may help out some. Someone in a thread said you have to disassemble the shock to do that, but looking at it you dont have to. you just have to back the pre-load to release the tension on the spring and take off the lower spring perch. You can then screw on the divider collar and re-spring. If I cant get these WE dialed in, that is worth a shot.

They only have compression clickers..no rebound fyi
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Old October 14th, 2013, 10:14 AM   #8
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

I read in another thread that you should turn the clickers to full closed (hard), and then count the clicks out to open (soft).
Some people are finding that some shocks will have more click positions than others.
If you start at full closed and open them the same amount you will have equal settings.
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Old October 14th, 2013, 10:16 AM   #9
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

Mine seemed a little stiff the way I received it from the factory/dealer.
I removed some preload and rode yesterday with the clickers at full open just to see how much it would change.
It was much softer. I will probably need to add some preload back in and adjust the clickers closed a couple clicks.
I will get some measurements next time so I can report exactly what set up I am using.
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Old October 14th, 2013, 11:32 AM   #10
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

Adjusted my springs to:
Front- 17.5"
Rear- 23.5"

Adjusted the clicker to 4 turns from softest setting.

Seemed to respond pretty well at Ocotillo Wells this weekend doing mostly open desert driving through washes and trails. Sucked up the whoops pretty well and blasted along the pole line roads around 50-60 mph with no issues. Might adjust more after hitting the dunes and seeing what the bottom out is like on transitions. Rear top spring was compressed fully after a few minutes of riding.

Hitting the washes at 70 mph was awesome though, esp after they just graded some of the trails...
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Old October 14th, 2013, 12:23 PM   #11
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

Quote: Originally Posted by bshay20 View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by Krunch0 View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by Repeat Offender View Post
I'm wondering if not all Xp1000's shocks are set the same from the factory.
Might be what ever the day laborer and W.E. set them at,, not anything specific. Just assembled them and shipped them.

We're 4 CC turns or 4 turns up on the rear pre-load from stock and the machine is perfect. Didn't adjust anything else. The back did drop down noticeably.

We played with the reservoir knobs are they are very effective. One or 2 clicks either way and you most definitely feel the difference.

We have Elkas on several other vehicles and adjusting the knobs are like taking asprin,, nothing changes.
I think the Elkas reservoir knobs are decoration.

The WE is a really good running shock, if ya get good one from the factory.
Quality and how long they last damfino,, but they sure run good for stock OEM.
They are coming set from the factory. I did the assembly on my 1000 myself. The assembly checklist had nothing about shock adjustment. Only mounting the reservoir.

I adjusted the rebound on the front shocks all the way out to soft, then in two clicks. Stock pre-load. Front is dialed perfect.

The rear I backed the pre-load off quite a bit. Not sure because i lost my mark, so I used a measuring tape to set them both. Back end is still real stiff and tends to pogo stick. Rebound settings are set the same as the front. I dont want to take out much more pre-load because I dont want to lose ground clearance. I am contemplating making these a true dual rate with the divider stop and different springs. it may help out some. Someone in a thread said you have to disassemble the shock to do that, but looking at it you dont have to. you just have to back the pre-load to release the tension on the spring and take off the lower spring perch. You can then screw on the divider collar and re-spring. If I cant get these WE dialed in, that is worth a shot.

They only have compression clickers..no rebound fyi
Yeah I meant compression. It was late and I was only half awake lol.
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Old October 14th, 2013, 12:30 PM   #12
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

I am primarily a dune rider and generally ride by myself (200 pounds). I am running the STU 28" Blasters #1 cut at 8 psi and the STU razor steer tires in front at 8 psi. Using the terminology and measuring technique as per the Polaris manual, I am at 24" on the rear springs with the compression adjusters open ten clicks from closed. The front I am at 17" with the compression adjusters 6 clicks open from closed. This is the best set up for me in the dunes. I am a hard charger in the dunes, and didn't bottom out once this last weekend.
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Old October 14th, 2013, 01:24 PM   #13
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

Quote: Originally Posted by marlboroman View Post
I am primarily a dune rider and generally ride by myself (200 pounds). I am running the STU 28" Blasters #1 cut at 8 psi and the STU razor steer tires in front at 8 psi. Using the terminology and measuring technique as per the Polaris manual, I am at 24" on the rear springs with the compression adjusters open ten clicks from closed. The front I am at 17" with the compression adjusters 6 clicks open from closed. This is the best set up for me in the dunes. I am a hard charger in the dunes, and didn't bottom out once this last weekend.
Is this with the factory valving or the ones you re-valved?
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Old October 14th, 2013, 02:15 PM   #14
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

Quote: Originally Posted by bshay20 View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by marlboroman View Post
I am primarily a dune rider and generally ride by myself (200 pounds). I am running the STU 28" Blasters #1 cut at 8 psi and the STU razor steer tires in front at 8 psi. Using the terminology and measuring technique as per the Polaris manual, I am at 24" on the rear springs with the compression adjusters open ten clicks from closed. The front I am at 17" with the compression adjusters 6 clicks open from closed. This is the best set up for me in the dunes. I am a hard charger in the dunes, and didn't bottom out once this last weekend.
Is this with the factory valving or the ones you re-valved?
These are with factory valving. I have one machine with the stock valving and one I re-valved. I am currently working with Walker Evans to fine tune the ones I re-valved. We are trying different spring combos and a true dual rate spring set up. So far, there has been no benefit to the true dual rate set up for the rear.
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Old October 14th, 2013, 03:20 PM   #15
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Re: Suspension setting for XP 1000

Quote: Originally Posted by marlboroman View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by bshay20 View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by marlboroman View Post
I am primarily a dune rider and generally ride by myself (200 pounds). I am running the STU 28" Blasters #1 cut at 8 psi and the STU razor steer tires in front at 8 psi. Using the terminology and measuring technique as per the Polaris manual, I am at 24" on the rear springs with the compression adjusters open ten clicks from closed. The front I am at 17" with the compression adjusters 6 clicks open from closed. This is the best set up for me in the dunes. I am a hard charger in the dunes, and didn't bottom out once this last weekend.
Is this with the factory valving or the ones you re-valved?
These are with factory valving. I have one machine with the stock valving and one I re-valved. I am currently working with Walker Evans to fine tune the ones I re-valved. We are trying different spring combos and a true dual rate spring set up. So far, there has been no benefit to the true dual rate set up for the rear.

I think that with this setup, the only true advantage that a dual rate setup would have over what we have now is you can set where the transition between the two spring rates take place. The tender spring with the lighter rate takes the small stuff like washboards ect. Then as you move farther into the travel the keeper hits the dual rate stop and the main spring takes over. So the only advantage that I can see is with the dual rate stop you can set where in the travel the transition from tender to main happens.

Now I am not entirely sure that the tender spring that is stock is truly up for the task of being a true dual rate. Most tender springs I have seen are much much longer which gives more travel in the tender before the change over to the main.

marlboroman,

when you went dual rate, did you change your tender spring or did you keep the stock spring and just re-valve?
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