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post #46 of 140 Old September 12th, 2013, 07:29 PM
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

Wow I can see why all the people with the knowledge you desire keep it to themselves and their businesses. :thumbup:
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post #47 of 140 Old September 12th, 2013, 07:32 PM
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post #48 of 140 Old September 12th, 2013, 07:56 PM
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

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Originally Posted by JustinCMW View Post
He was answering why the spring was compressed in the rear when the tires were on the ground and why the fronts weren't for the stock preload setting not the procedure on how to or why you would adjust them. I'm pretty sure he would know that.
No he wasn't. His answer was wrong. He implied the spring had no real task. I asked, why is it compressed? His answer should have been, the preload is set to carry a particular load, if you want to carry less then that load then soften the preset.
I am man enough to admit when I'm wrong, not everyone is able to do that.
Happy trails.
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post #49 of 140 Old September 13th, 2013, 12:04 AM
 
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

On the rear shock of the xp1k is the same as the upper spring of the xp4 900. It is a tender spring which keeps a load on the lower spring when the suspension is at full droop. It is not a true dual rate spring setup.



This is a picture of my front shock for my xp4. I just got them back from walker Evans from getting the needle valving and eibach springs. Under the upper red spring you can see the stop for the slider which is what makes this a true dual rate setup. When the upper spring compresses to the point that the slider hits those slider stop nuts, it kicks in the lower spring which had a higher spring rate then the upper.

The xp1k does not have those lower slider stop nuts. That means it is NOT a true dual rate setup but they get away with calling it that because of the dual springs.

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post #50 of 140 Old September 13th, 2013, 12:15 AM
 
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

To answer the question about lowering the rear to help get it into a trailer.

Jack the bike up till the wheels are off the ground. Turn the upper spring retainer to loosen the tension on the tender spring. I would go no further then a half inch.

BUT I highly recommend NOT touching that to lower the rear. You will be taking away rear ride height meaning less ground clearance.

If you want to get help getting in a trailer because the cage it to tall. Your best option is to chop the cage or buy an aftermarket cage with a lower ride height. Other then that using the straps is the only option.

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post #51 of 140 Old September 13th, 2013, 09:05 AM
 
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

This thread has been interesting. It has me laughing. If someone has a height problem getting it into their trailer, they can lower it how ever much they want, as long as they raise the ride height back up to an exceptable level before driving the vehicle after it is pulled out of the trailer. Zero preload (with the wheels off the ground, spring spins freely, without any slop), then adding a few turns of the coil adjustment nut (clockwise direction) would be my minimum acceptable ride height for driving. Let the shock do the work, and let the spring(s) hold the ride height you desire. Depending on your riding style and or terrain you encounter, you may or may not want more or less ride height. There are minimum and maximum levels that preload of the spring(s) can be set to. I am by no means an "expert", but I know a decent amount about this stuff.

Some of you need to do your homework on the mechanics of the shocks and springs before coming on here and giving advice to other members. There are a lot of us that know what we are talking about. Sometimes you just might have to sift through the BS to find an educated answer. There are some correct answers in this thread already. But there are some that you might want to clean your shoes off after you walk through them.


Carry on.

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post #52 of 140 Old September 13th, 2013, 10:17 PM
 
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

Should the compression nut be very hard to turn? I have rzr jacked up and when turning the nut it seems to have reached its stopping point. Spring still has tension but I can't get it to give anymore rotations on the nut.
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post #53 of 140 Old September 13th, 2013, 10:41 PM
 
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

Depends on how much preload you have in it already. Have you measures it per the owners manual to see where you are at? Also, sometimes dirt and or sand get in the threads and make it very hard to turn or it binds up. Back it off a couple of turns and wipe down the threads with a damp cloth and go at it again.

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post #54 of 140 Old September 13th, 2013, 11:03 PM
 
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by marlboroman View Post
Depends on how much preload you have in it already. Have you measures it per the owners manual to see where you are at? Also, sometimes dirt and or sand get in the threads and make it very hard to turn or it binds up. Back it off a couple of turns and wipe down the threads with a damp cloth and go at it again.
Yeah thanks. I was at 22.75 preload. I got it to 23" and then stuck. I tried some 3 in 1. It will only move about 1/8 turn in either direction. The rear driver side was a piece of cake. What do you think about 23" I guess I'll just leave it there. May have to have dealer look at it. I attempted using a helper bar on my spring clutch tool but it was just going to mess up the hole on the compression nut. This thing is STUCK! Ha! Damn the luck. Thanks for the help
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post #55 of 140 Old September 14th, 2013, 12:00 AM
 
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

Why are you adding so much preload into the rear springs? Are you trying to gain ground clearance? Bottoming out? Sounds like you have some dirt and or debris in the threads of the coil adjustment nut. The shock body is aluminum so be careful putting so much force on it.

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post #56 of 140 Old September 14th, 2013, 12:12 AM
 
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

No, maybe I'm doing this incorrectly. I'm looking to lower the ass end and gain a softer ride. I was turning the compression nuts clockwise taking pressure off of the springs. My comp nut got stuck and I measures from the bottom of the spring to the top of spring (this is where I got the 23" from). No glory?
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post #57 of 140 Old September 14th, 2013, 12:21 AM
 
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

Counter clockwise to decrease preload on the springs(lower the ass end). Make sure the xp's rear wheel are completely off the ground before making any adjustments. Measure from the bottom of the spring adjuster nut to the top of the lower spring plate. What are those measurements?

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post #58 of 140 Old September 14th, 2013, 09:32 AM
 
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by marlboroman View Post
Counter clockwise to decrease preload on the springs(lower the ass end). Make sure the xp's rear wheel are completely off the ground before making any adjustments. Measure from the bottom of the spring adjuster nut to the top of the lower spring plate. What are those measurements?
Measures 5 3/8" from bottom of adjuster to top of lower plate. I'm confused, the owners manual may be printed wrong. On pg. 111 of manual it says: turn adjusting ring left to increase preload, turn right to decrease preload?
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post #59 of 140 Old September 14th, 2013, 10:02 AM
 
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by tpollock33 View Post
Correct should get you close to 24 inches from bottom of spring to the top of the springs(not the top of the adjuster). This is awhile the machine is still in the air
I adjusted the rear springs to 24" it seems like a great place to start do you have a length as a starting point for the front's
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post #60 of 140 Old September 14th, 2013, 10:25 AM
 
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Re: XP 1000 Rear Shocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoob03 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by marlboroman View Post
Counter clockwise to decrease preload on the springs(lower the ass end). Make sure the xp's rear wheel are completely off the ground before making any adjustments. Measure from the bottom of the spring adjuster nut to the top of the lower spring plate. What are those measurements?
Measures 5 3/8" from bottom of adjuster to top of lower plate. I'm confused, the owners manual may be printed wrong. On pg. 111 of manual it says: turn adjusting ring left to increase preload, turn right to decrease preload?
Refer to page 109 for preload measurements. Page 111 is correct, just remember, to add preload, spin it clockwise and to decrease, counter clockwise. As described on page 109, I have adjusted mine to 24 1/4" for the rear. I adjusted my shocks compression clicker knobs to 4 clicks closed from fully open.

On the front, I went to 16.5" (as described on page 109) and adjusted the compression adjustment clicker knobs to 7 clicks closed from fully open. This is a great set up for my riding. I put my tires at 10psi in the rear and 12 psi upfront. It is way better through the whoops and a nice soft ride in the chop. Play around with your settings and get it where you feel it's best.

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Last edited by marlboroman; September 14th, 2013 at 10:29 AM. Reason: Spelling
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