posted in wrong place before sorry, but whats better for a new s drive it like you stole it or take it easy and go by the book
thanks

look at the other post , Run it hard she'll run hard baby it she'll be a slug

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

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2009 poolaris RZR Bikeman pipe , ump , powercammander , Throttle play adjusted , lonestar grill's .she rips

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This is contrary to everything I learned growing up, but I can tell you through personal experience that I think it works. I am usually to impatient to find out how it runs. I would be the guy that would buy a brand new sports car and leave the dealer's lot in a cloud of tire smoke. I broke my YFZ in this way and it has always been one of the fastest running quads at the sand drags.

I drove resonable breaking mine in. I tried to take it slow vary the throttle and do not leave the throttle on to long on straights. Its vary hard. The S wants to go.

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RZR-S. Half windshield. Headache net. Rock sliders. Polaris premium bumper. Polaris cargo box. PIAA lights. Gas can carrier. Polaris hard top. OMF CV protectors. XTR 3000 winch.

My dealer told me to drive it as hard as I plan to from day one.

just a word of caution.i carried a temp gun while breaking mine in and the rear-end gears got really hot during break-in.make sure you give it frequent cool down periods.i talked to some guys from a dealership a few weeks ago and they told me they had a lot of brand new rzr's blowing the rear ends apart.also check all your fluids to make sure they're full.my dealership told me they did,but it was obvious all they checked was the engine oil level.my transfer case and front dif were both real low.(even the radiator overflow bottle)

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thanks for the input that what i was thinking as well
ps any one want a pilot

I was always told to push the rpm's to the max and then let off during break in. Just dont hold it wfo for very long. I agree, if you dog around on it will be a pooch.

i allways run hard but not for long times then give it a break and after a few hundred go for broke....

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running makin trax afco shocks and springs

when I bought it about 5 months ago I hammered it from the start...worked great. Had new higher comp pistons installed and the builder asked me to put 2 hours at varied speeds/rpms to break in so I did it that way.

I think you should try and seat the rings prior to hammering on it.

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2009 RZR-S FOR SALE
2011 XP 900

the dealer here told me to let it heat up and then let it cool down and to do this for like the first 3 tanks of fuel. they also said to avoid long trips at first, like 30 mins plus. i ran that thing full tilt today, you woulda thought that it was a dyno pull.

I run everything what have a engine hard from day one, but always wait for engine to warm up. I think, if modern engine will need break in period, they would never fill engines with synthetic oil. which will prolong the break in period. I remember when I bought 2001 Dodge Diesel, they even stated not synthetic oil for first 15K miles. But today almost all gas engine are filled with synthetic oil from factory.
milos

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I broke mine in slow and steady. I've always done this with new stuff. Its not just the motor you also have a to worry about the rear end and the CVT. The CVT probably isn't as big of deal as a standard transmission like in other stuff since it doesn't have gears that need to mesh. I broke mine in same as what motorcycles suggest. Vary the RPMs and work your way up. Most important is to vary the RPMs. If you dont you will have flat spots in the powerband.

We do some engine component testing and have found the best break in for us is to vary speed, short wide open bursts, heat sink the engine and then let it cool down-repeat for a couple of tanks.

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Done it this way on everything from Shifter Karts, Banshee`s and rzrs and it`s the way I`ll continue to do it, Because it works!

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