2011 RZR 800 electric lost - Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net

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post #1 of 17 Old March 20th, 2017, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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Pissed 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

Alright I usually don't post much unless there is something I really can not figure out. So here it goes...

I took my rzr out in the PA blizzard we had last week and had some fun, got snow packed all throughout the machine and i parked in my semi heated garage to be melted off in the next few days. On saturday I went to go move the buggy while i was cleaning the garage and i turn the key and nothing happened. No dash lights, no relay click and no fuel pump wind up. So below is the list of items i have checked.

1. All fuses are in working order (power block and main fuse block)
2. Ground connection behind battery are all good ( i took apart and cleaned them with a wire brush and stoned)
3. I crossed the starter solenoid with a screw driver and got the engine to crank normal and fast
4. I have the skids off and inspecting along the wire harness and jiggling around with the key on and have not had anything make it click on even for a second
5. took ignition switch out and checked continuity according to the book and everything checks out good

I think this has to be a grounding issue, maybe snow packed in somewhere and froze again causing something to move. Does anyone know if there is more ground connections im not seeing? Im semi literate in electrical schematics and have been working through the schematics in the manual. I see there is a few decent size ground splices for the dash and for the relays in the fuse block, does anyone know where these splices might be located?

Thanks for any help or input someone can put into this!
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post #2 of 17 Old March 20th, 2017, 06:52 AM
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

OK, you know you have power to the solenoid, good. One of the wires to the ignition switch should have +12volts to it. That is where I would start (simplest thing first). On an 09 (mine) it's a red wire (no tracer). Check for +12 volts to ground at that wire. No 12 volts? trace the wire back to the fuse box. Should be a 12volt buss there with many wires. Be aware I'm using the wiring diagram for an 09 so yours may be a little different. If you have 12 volts at that wire and still no lights etc when you turn the switch "on", you got a bad switch. Also you can check the wires coming out of the switch, if most of them ( Red/White) should have 12v. The White/Red is the start wire. If these are all good and still no power anywhere, it's definitely a ground, probably near the battery.

Mike
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post #3 of 17 Old March 20th, 2017, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

MikeT, Thanks!
I was on kind of a rampage of electrical diagnosing so i figured i would leave something out in my first message that i checked. I know for a fact I do have 12 V coming into the connector that plugs into the ignition switch. I do not know what wire it was, I just checked the blades while i had it disconnected.

I do also have 12 V going into the chassis relay on the fuse box. I swapped relays with the fan and nothing changed so i swapped back.

I am at work all day, when i get home i will check if the proper wire has electric going out when i turn the key.

As far as ground is concerned, I 99.9% the ground wires behind the battery terminal box are as grounded as they can get. I cleaned the wire ends with a wire brush and stone and also stoned the frame and wire brushed the bolt. Its gotta be grounded. Im just wondering if the ground wires are disconnected further on in the harness where it splices to multiple sources.

Thanks for your help!
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post #4 of 17 Old March 20th, 2017, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

Any info on where this "fusible link" is located between the battery and the fuse box?

Thanks
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post #5 of 17 Old March 20th, 2017, 12:03 PM
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

I'm not very familiar with the electrical schematics or wiring of these specific machines, but being very familiar with other 12vdc operating systems, I have to throw this out there...

In order to complete the starting circuit, the brake pedal has to be depressed. So that being said, I'm not certain if the brake pedal closes the positive or the negative side of the circuit. I'd recommend looking into that too. If that brake switch is not operating properly, then the starting circuit can't be closed, to allow starting.

It's very possible that switch or some other part of the circuit (pigtail, wiring, etc) became compromised with the moisture and snow accumulation in the harness. Or... the switch just finally and/or coincidentally failed. Like all other components, they all have a cycle life and sometimes they fail prematurely, and suddenly.

Last edited by Wanna Ride; March 20th, 2017 at 12:11 PM.
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post #6 of 17 Old March 20th, 2017, 12:27 PM
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

Quote:
Originally Posted by backstrapfever View Post
I know for a fact I do have 12 V coming into the connector that plugs into the ignition switch.
If you have 12 volts on the RD/WH wire at the ignition switch, I would pull switch and check the pin-outs per page 10.4 of manual.

Looking at the schematic 12v out from ignition switch is orange wire.
There is a orange splice somewhere that feeds 12v (orange wire) to diagnostic plug under dash. If you have 12v at diagnostic plug, with switch on, then switch and splice should be good.
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2014 800 LE w/EPS 50”
PRO ARMOR trail doors, RYFAB rear windshield, MotoAlliance Fire Storm cab heater, RYFAB cargo rack, WARN PV4500S wide spool winch, POLARIS front windshield and top, 2008 tail lamp assemblies with backup lights, RACERTECH 2” lift, Duraclutch, R2C Air Filter, Garage Products A-arm bushings.
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post #7 of 17 Old March 20th, 2017, 03:21 PM
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

I would say check the brake switch located behind the drivers seat. If it is not making good contact it will give the symptoms you have.
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post #8 of 17 Old March 20th, 2017, 06:06 PM
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

Joe;
I'm sure you have checked but easy to over look, on our 2012, in the left rear wheel well kind of tucked forward there is a connection with 2 power fuses, one 30 amp, one 20 amp, and a spare. these feed the power to the relay fuse block.

On the 2011 diagram look in the lower right, find the battery, look left at the fourth item. That is the power fuse block, it looks like a paddle in the wire harness. If those fuses are open you won't power up front. 30 amp is for the relay feed through, 20 amp is for the accessory power for key, lights and other power.

Les
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post #9 of 17 Old March 21st, 2017, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

Alright, got a quick update, thanks everyone for their suggestions sorry i haven't commented back, some times i get a little consumed when i can't find a problem. Below is where im at:

12V to Chassis relay - good
Ground to chassis relay - good
12V to chassis relay from switch - not so good (measuring 4v)

Did some diagnosing and I still couldn't blame the ignition switch, the resistance was checking out perfect. So i started unwrapping the harness and checking wires. About an hour later I finally made it through the fire wall and down to the bottom of the firewall before it goes under the floor boards, It was here I found the Mythical "Orange Wire Splice". As soon as i found it I grabbed ahold of the splice and squeezed and all the relays started clicking and lights were flashing (the beast was alive - kind of). So I knew this was the culprit, I cut out the splice and stripped the wires and twisted them together. Now when i turn the key I have 10-11 volts making it to the chassis relay, this was making them click like crazy and not stay on. Im going to blame that on my shotty twist job for now, I just wanted to confirm I would get more volts after eliminating the Orange wire splice. That is pretty much where my night ended and I wont get to work on it again until thursday night due to other commitments, so In the meantime I ordered some good shrink tube that is lined with adhesive. My plan is to splice longer wires on all the orange wires (there is 6 that are supposed to be spliced together) and bring the wires up to under the dash and come up with a better connection point that could easily be accessed if something happens again. I will keep everyone informed after my next attempt, at least im making some progress and trying to document it for the future reference!
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post #10 of 17 Old March 21st, 2017, 06:15 AM
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

Way to go Joe! Perseverance pays off. Congrats you've identified the problem. Been on the forum for 7 years and this is the first time I've heard of a confirmed defective splice. I'm sure now you will be able to complete a satisfactory repair.

Mike
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post #11 of 17 Old March 21st, 2017, 06:31 AM
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

Joe:
Good job, I'll keep that in the back of my mind. I would suggest giving that splice a shot of solder then some liquid tape and then the good heat shrink.
Les
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post #12 of 17 Old March 21st, 2017, 10:11 AM
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

Sorry you had issues but sounds like you are on the road to recovery! I gave mine a good washing a few weeks ago. When finished, it would not start!! So, I have been following this thread hoping you found the culprit!!
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post #13 of 17 Old March 21st, 2017, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

Yeah, Normally i can find anything on this forum that is wrong with my RZR, this one was baffling me. Trust me if its a rare issue, it will happen to me haha. I will update this weekend after the fix is completed.
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post #14 of 17 Old March 22nd, 2017, 06:26 AM
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

Joe,

Pictures would not only be nice, but if no pictures it didn't happen.

Mike
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post #15 of 17 Old March 24th, 2017, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 2011 RZR 800 electric lost

Back at it, with some pictures. I was out last night in the garage pretty late, I thought all i had to do was fix that splice and I was golden. So i fixed the splice and things worked a little, i was getting 12 volts and then sometimes lower. So i started back over, Now where i was getting 12 into the ignition switch it was only 10, sometimes as low as 4, it was constantly changing as i wiggled stuff but never got up to 12 to even want to turn anything on again. So after some time of sitting down and following the schematic I was able to determine A wire comes from the EFI fuse behind the drivers seat, into another EFI fuse in the fuse box, the 12 volts goes through that 20 amp fuse ( i think its a 20 not positive), then straight to the ignition, to be crossed over when you turn the key to my infamous orange wires supplying power everywhere, including the EFI.

So I tried tracing this big red wire from the power fuse block to the main fuse block and i wasn't having a whole lot of luck, I ended up cutting the red wire at the fuse block under the dash and just temporarily patching a wire with an inline fuse straight from the battery to see how things work, and just like that all lights came on and I was able to start the beast!. So Next I cut the wire where it comes out of the fuse block behind the drivers seat and fed a brand new wire up through the harness and spliced it into the fuse block under the dash. We are golden at this point, It was getting extremely late and all the wires were starting the look the same color so i called it quits, all i have to do yet is tape up the rest of my harness and re assemble everything. I attached a few pictures just as requested of some of my splices. I ordered some shrink tube from Amazon that is coated with an adhesive on the inside, i would highly recommend this stuff, it really seals down on the wires and I even doubled it up where possible.

Conclusion: I think I may have had issues with this power wire the whole time, but also an issue with the orange splice. The only thing harder then diagnosing an electrical issue, is diagnosing 2 electrical issues....

Thanks for following along, I will give one more post when I have everything reassembled and running perfect! Any questions please feel free to let me know.
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