Hi, i saw the manual about the break-in procedure but little confused about it...they only write to vary thottle and not running at high speed...now i have 60 miles done on my new machine...for the first 3 hours, i ran it at 25 mph maximum and with no charge...i want to break it the best way possible...I think the best thing it to not run it at full throttle and at a maximum speed about 45mph for the first 2 tank of fuel..anyone know if it's a good way to do it?I can't wait to push the limit of the machine but want to be sure to correctly break it before

This is what I did, ran my xp at a range of rpms between 0-8300 and held it there for a few seconds for like 5 miles (street)

Like I went down the street at 3500 rpms, kept it there for a few seconds, sped to 5000, back down, back up, then up to wide open. I think thats what the manual said :}

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hi

Im a true believer in breaking it in the way u are goin to ride it. Ive got 2 canams 1 m8 and a2012rzr s . All run amazing. Never burnt up and right from wen they came home i rode them hard.jmo take it for what its worth.

Ride it like you stole it. I have owned several, and have never had a problem.

There's a ton of theories on break in. The one that made the most sense to me was to ride like you normally would. But don't hold it wide open for long periods of time for the first 50 miles. Just hit the max and back it off. But you need to run the rpms up to break the rings in and seat them good. Jmo.

so shannon you recommend to go at top speed and down the speed after? cuz in the manual they write not going at high speed for the first 2 tank of fuel...and it's long to burn 2 tank on this little things

Bump

it takes heat and cylinder pressure to break a top end in, which is done by WOT runs. Don't baby your motor, drive it hard to seat everything in and be done with it.

This is the same way we do all of our fresh motors. Heat cycle, then wide open throttle runs.

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RZR 900 - H2O Ink graphics, 29.5 Outlaw 2's

Canam max - 910 motor by 3P (Pit Proven Performance), CVTech by Airdam

Yeah I do. You have to make friction pressure and heat to seat the rings.

There is a couple of theories on break-in procedure and why manufacturers recommend slow speed, moderate throttle break-ins.
Firstly, I believe in breaking an engine in hard. It will perform better(fuel ecomony, power, low(no) oil consumption, etc) and be more reliable. I sell and service John Deere marine diesels (great engines, by the way!!) and I perform the start-up and sea trialing of the vessels and the engine. I systematically run the engine from low speed (1000rpm) through to full throttle rpm. However, I step the engine up through 100-200 rpm increments as I monitor all guages. As mentioned before, a new engine needs heat and more importantly, pressure, to press those ring hard against the cylinder walls. Since the shape of the rings and the cylinder walls are not exactly the same when new, you are trying to shape the rings to the walls. BUT CAUTION, you can over heat a new engine very easily!! New engines are very tight and create alot of frictional heat. As well, the cross hatch pattern honed into the cylinder wall is designed to 'file' or shape the ring to the cylinder. This creates additional heat as well. So, in a nutshell, go WOT for short blasts. Run the motor at part throttle. In essence, ride it like you normally would but with a little aggression. Another BUT, DO NOT IDLE the engine for prolonged periods. You will have little pressure on the rings and they will be simply sliding up and down the walls, causing the cylinders to glaze. You will have poor performance and oil consumption!! Now, the other consideration in the case of most ATVs and UTVs today is the belt driven clutching system. This is where you can screw up. Again, nothing has taken seat when new and you can slip the belt easily and create excess heat, causing premature belt failure or a belt that tends to slip easily under load. So don't mash the throttle to get to WOT, apply increasing throttle when you to want to go WOT. Use low range for slower sections of trail or when working the RZR. --The manufacture asks it's customers to not go WOT for a reason. They are trying to protect the engine/transmission from overheating. Without this procedure set out in the OM, you can guarantee that some yahoo will get his RZR home and nail the throttle, have engine/transmission issues, and go back and bitch the dealer out. This might still happen, but at least Polaris covered their asses. Also, they know that sometimes a new machine goes out to a customer with some component with is defective, not properly adjusted, not tightened, or simply not prepped at the dealer correctly. They don't want someone to take a machine home, drive it 50MPH, and something break. Trying to keep the riding slow for the first while allows for these item to occur while the bike is not traveling fast and thus, not killing someone or destroying the machine. Covering their asses!!

Sounds straight to me

Is there any clarification as why not to carry 2 passengers while breaking in the motor for the first 2 hours? Is this targeted towards becoming more familiar with the driving characteristics of the machine or is it due to a weight issue? The manual is just not very clear.

The way I read it, it seemed more for newbies. Just to get used to how the machine handles.

Thanks a lot novarzr..I try to apply the best I can the advice you mentionned..very clear answer.but I admit I push a the limit maybe a little to high and even kikcking the rev limiter 1 or 2 time...it's so hard not to try the machine even more when you are with 3 other atv...anyway I have 135 miles on the counter right now and even if the manual say 2 tank, I think 90% of the break in is done. My dealer told me not to push it too hard fr only the first tank..i'm not disapointed for my first side by side
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You're very welcome. Exercise restraint for a bit more, but have fun. It'll be worth it. Wait till you have 200 miles and then, ENJOY your RZR !!!