My RZR: 2012 RZR 570, RacerTech Springs, Team Alba FC, ProArmor doors, UNI filter, 26" Bighorn 2.0s
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Re: what do you recommend for the break in
There is a couple of theories on break-in procedure and why manufacturers recommend slow speed, moderate throttle break-ins.
Firstly, I believe in breaking an engine in hard. It will perform better(fuel ecomony, power, low(no) oil consumption, etc) and be more reliable. I sell and service John Deere marine diesels (great engines, by the way!!) and I perform the start-up and sea trialing of the vessels and the engine. I systematically run the engine from low speed (1000rpm) through to full throttle rpm. However, I step the engine up through 100-200 rpm increments as I monitor all guages. As mentioned before, a new engine needs heat and more importantly, pressure, to press those ring hard against the cylinder walls. Since the shape of the rings and the cylinder walls are not exactly the same when new, you are trying to shape the rings to the walls. BUT CAUTION, you can over heat a new engine very easily!! New engines are very tight and create alot of frictional heat. As well, the cross hatch pattern honed into the cylinder wall is designed to 'file' or shape the ring to the cylinder. This creates additional heat as well. So, in a nutshell, go WOT for short blasts. Run the motor at part throttle. In essence, ride it like you normally would but with a little aggression. Another BUT, DO NOT IDLE the engine for prolonged periods. You will have little pressure on the rings and they will be simply sliding up and down the walls, causing the cylinders to glaze. You will have poor performance and oil consumption!! Now, the other consideration in the case of most ATVs and UTVs today is the belt driven clutching system. This is where you can screw up. Again, nothing has taken seat when new and you can slip the belt easily and create excess heat, causing premature belt failure or a belt that tends to slip easily under load. So don't mash the throttle to get to WOT, apply increasing throttle when you to want to go WOT. Use low range for slower sections of trail or when working the RZR. --The manufacture asks it's customers to not go WOT for a reason. They are trying to protect the engine/transmission from overheating. Without this procedure set out in the OM, you can guarantee that some yahoo will get his RZR home and nail the throttle, have engine/transmission issues, and go back and bitch the dealer out. This might still happen, but at least Polaris covered their asses. Also, they know that sometimes a new machine goes out to a customer with some component with is defective, not properly adjusted, not tightened, or simply not prepped at the dealer correctly. They don't want someone to take a machine home, drive it 50MPH, and something break. Trying to keep the riding slow for the first while allows for these item to occur while the bike is not traveling fast and thus, not killing someone or destroying the machine. Covering their asses!!