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Home-made Lock N Ride Anchors

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guy48065
198K views 159 replies 87 participants last post by  Smallblock 
#1 · (Edited)
No way I'm paying $18 each for the L&R hold-downs. They can only clamp something down to the bed and don't provide a place to tie off or anchor a bungee. So I made my own.

There are a few different types of expanding rubber plugs available in hardware, boating and plumbing stores. Here are some choices of 1" stoppers that should be available at most well-stocked hardware stores and plumbing supply:


The rubber on the left and right plugs is a little soft so I didn't trust it to be a good anchor. The plug in the middle uses a rubber stopper that's firm and solid. Once snugged in place I'm unable to pull it out. To make it usefull as a tiedown I replaced the metal parts with a 1/4-20 x 1.5" eyebolt and a 1/4-20 "T-nut". A T-nut is a woodworking nut with barbs that sink into wood to keep the tapped nut from spinning. Cut or grind the barbs off leaving tiny nibs to keep the nut from rotating on the rubber stopper. Run a regular nut up the shaft to jam against the eye or the end of the threads. Re-use the large flat washer that came with the stopper. Spin on the T-nut and the finished anchor will look like this:


As you finger-tighten the eyebolt the rubber is squashed between the T-nut and flat washer and expands to grip the hole in the bed. Don't overtighten or you risk cracking the plastic sleeve in the hole.

You can also substitute a hook for the eyebolt to make an anchor that's convenient for looping the middle of a bungee thru.
 
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#118 ·
Mell, my twist (pun intended) on these was 1/4-20 eye bolts and t-nuts. Barbs are easily cliped short with just standard sidecutters, the shoulder on the t-nut fits perfect into the square recess on the rubber plug, and swapped out the washer with a fender washer for the top. I cut the eyebolts off about 3/4" below the t-nut, to prevent interferance with components underneath, and flattened the end threads with a hammer to keep the nut from being able to spin off, and. I think the slightly smaller t-nut might make the rubber expand better, and 1/4" bolts are plenty for bungys or ratchet straps (used judicously). I went hand tight + 1 to 1-1/2 turns. So quick and easy to do. Set of 4 around 16 bucks. I may have to do more.


Muchas grassy a** to whoever came up with this simple alternative. I freakin' DIG it.
 
#120 · (Edited)
They end up looking much like the ones above except a larger washer on top and 1 size smaller diameter bolt. (the ones above look like the washer that comes on the plug.) Then I hammer flat last couple of threads on the eyebolt so the nut can't come off should one inadvertantly thread it loose too far. Sorry, no pics. Dumb phone.


So the latest pair I did with a 1/2" black nylon spacer between the rubber and the fender washer, so it would reach down through the cargo box that arrived today, and anchor into the Razor bed. Leaves me with a pair of eyebolts inside the box to secure whatever I want, and easy to remove if I want, seems to be very secure. Hardest part was getting the holes marked from below in the right spot.


I like these so well, I might just have to carry some to give away cause they're so cheap and easy to do.


Oh yeah, the vise works better and easier to flatten the last couple of threads on the eyebolt after cutting to length.
 
#121 ·
This is what I ended up settling on, I tried all the other do it yourself versions and most of them held up fine but these are probably as strong as you'll find and cost just slightly more than all of them I pieced together. The picture doesn't actually match the product on their website, they have them mixed up 3/8" pic on the 1/2" site and vice versa. So the one here is actually $9.99 not $13.99. They're in the automotive tie down section of your local Menards.
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...bolt-anchor-points-2-pk/p-1944248-c-14203.htm

Pair them with these (or the 3/8" version) of ratcheting tie-downs and they'll hold anything you need.
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...4-rope-ratchet-tie-down/p-1460638-c-14203.htm
 
#122 · (Edited)
So I went to ace hardware and bought most of the hardware to build these. They did not have any sort of freeze plug or expansion plugs (Well they had some plubming ones but they were only 2" and 4" diameter). I might try to check lowes tonight or maybe a Napa or kragen.

Which rubber plugs are working best for people?

I don't think I'm saving much over the Polaris ones, and certainly not saving anything over the tusk ones. But mine will be all stainless!

4 x 5/16 SS tee nuts $1.70 each = $6.80
4 x 5/16th SS eye bolts w/ nut $3.20 each = $12
4 x 5/16th SS Fender Washers $.50 each = $2
Total = $20.8 + tax 8% $1.66 = $22.46 Just for the hardware, I still need to buy the freeze plugs or expansion plugs if I can find them (they did not have any).

BTW they had some "Made in USA" Eyebolts that had a weight rating of 200lbs on a rack for $4 each, but the ones in the Hillman drawer (no rating) were only $3.20.

Would it be cheaper to just use part of the freeze plug instead of buying the tee nuts? Of course then it wouldn't be stainless but galvanized is usually pretty resistant to the elements anyways. Should I just buy the tusk ones and take the rubber out of them? Seems like it might be cheaper to buy those than freeze plugs.
 
#123 ·
#124 · (Edited)
Not stainless or easily removable though right? How do you attach them? Another large washer on the bottom? Won't this damage the plastics? The local ace does not have much in their automotive section, they certainly didn't have those. There is a larger ace, but I won't be able to make it there until the weekend.
 
#125 ·
Zinc coated so no not stainless. I can remove them quite easily, but yes I forgot to mention that I did buy 4 large washers as these only come with one, so now there is one on top and one underneath. It didn't damage my plastics what-so-ever. You can also purchase them on Amazon if the stores aren't near you.
 
#127 ·
The rubber plugs will stay put for 90% of people I'm sure, but they're not enough for me to feel comfortable with them. I've bent plenty of the small eyeloop plug style ones tightening down my load. These ones are rated for 13 times what the best small loops are. Just saying that I've tried a lot of the versions that people have posted on here over the years and these are far and away the best you'll find, no need to ever buy them again. I will take comparison pics in the morning if I remember.
 
#128 · (Edited)
please do!

What about getting something like this in stainless? I realize stainless isn't necessarily going to be as strong but they look pretty stout and would eliminate rust.

Shoulder Eye Bolt 316 NM Stainless Steel 3 8" x 2 50" | eBay

Not sure what length would be best though (not in front of the RzR at the moment. They do have some shoulder, you could always shim it of course. I guess if I'm going to hard mount it I might as well go all out. With no plugs, do you use something to keep them centered while you bolt them through the holes?
 
#130 · (Edited)
Those look like they would do the job as well but with shipping you're looking at about 3x the cost.
If I order 4, shipping is still $6.50 luckily :) Still twice as much, but I like my stainless for stuff like this. What to use to keep them centered in the large hole though?

I could step down to these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150590990489

Still good for 800lbs so I doubt they would bend. Are you still using a rubber expansion plug to fill the gap then just using a washer and bolt instead of the tee nut to ensure they can't pull through?
 
#131 ·
Justin, I beleive you are way overthinking it. Autozone has the 1"-1 1/8" rubber freeze flugs for 2.99 each. get eyebolts that are threaded all the way to the shoulder of the eye, so you can run the nut that comes on it all the way up before putting on a fender washer, the rubber and a t-nut. they are zinc plated, and I'm sure will stand up for a reasonable time before becomeing unserviceable, and are cheap enough to just replace should that happen. You can cut the bolt off 1/2" below the t-nut and just flatten the very last couple of threads in a vise so they can't unthread all the way. Even 1/4" hardware will suffice for bungys, or ratchet straps if you don't get too carried away. Just my humble opinion.
 
#133 · (Edited)
Yea that's what I have now. Just thinking the shouldered one piece eye bolt (not the bolt shoulder but the shoulder on under the ring) would eliminate the need for the nut (just turn the eye to tighten), or use a nut and washer on the bottom to ensure it can never come out (but more permanent solution). I might just go with what I have then, change it as I see necessary. The problem is those stainless eyebolts are expensive from ACE at $3.20 to $4 each, when I can buy one piece ones rated to 800 lbs on ebay for only a couple bucks more. Heck for a couple more bucks than that I can skip to the 3/8th stainless rated for 1200lbs, but that's probably overkill for a rubber plug insert. BTW how thick are those freeze plugs anyways? I would assume more than an inch, but if they are under an inch then the shouldered eyebolts I am looking at might not work at all. But something like this probably would: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wichard-Sta...nch-/251899582027?hash=item3aa662964b&vxp=mtr

The ones in the post above do look HD, but it seems like there should be something to keep the eye centered in the hole, not that they will come out so much as possibly shift or move a little if you were tying something down that required those super strong eyes.
 
#134 ·
I measured a large doorman freeze plug I use for leak down testing my Yamaha Banshee (plugs the exhaust ports for testing engine seal). It's only 3/4"thick, So I would imagine I would want the shank length to be about 1.25-1.5" Can someone please verify because I see everyone is buying 3" shank length and trimming them. Full eye bolt selection on ebay for affordable prices is limited.

The shoulder on the links above is a bit too long, although with a few washers the 5/16th eyebolts would work. However i am now looking at these, as the cost is less, and they have a higher weight rating, but the shank is only about 1.25"
Stainless Steel Machinery Shoulder Lifting Eye Bolt M10 x 32mm 1400 lbs 316SS | eBay

I believe they do not need a nut at the top due to the shoulder this would provide .5" for a one or two washers at the top, and t-nut at the bottom. Seems like it would work to me though.

Thanks.
 
#140 ·
You're definitely right. There's no need for the tee nut, the rubber plug is already designed so it doesn't turn inside it when tightening. You also don't need to spend that extra $3 on that 'lifting eye nut' you put the link to. Home Depot has eye bolts that might cost you 50¢ depending on the size. Just replace the bolt the plug comes with with one from Home Depot.

One more thing in response to someone else... Putting a fender washer on the under side of the plastic hole almost defeats the purpose of the rubber expansion plug. While it may seem like it's adding extra support, when the nut is tightened up on the fender washer resting on the plastic instead of the actual rubber the rubber is no longer expanding.
 
#136 ·
Hey! That's a nice option, I'd still want a fender washer under the eyenut. And it puts you cost closer to 7 bucks, as opposed to 4. I still think you're going overkill. The thing just mounts into a plastic bed. How much pull do you really want to put on that? Are you trying to hang your rig from the rafters? My cooler just doesn't weigh that much, maybe I'm just not taking enough cervesas?
 
#137 ·
I was just going to use the washer that came on the freeze plug, why would you need a fender washer? So the plug can't fall through the top? Might be overkill but idk, they are the same price as the stainless eyebolts at ace, are rated to 800lbs and require no tee nuts. I think you could still add a large fender washer on the bottom to keep them from pulling through if you wanted, but you b would be putting the square peg in the round hole.

I ended up getting them from amazon from the same seller, shipping was cheaper that way.

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#138 ·
I would use it on the top to spread the load out on the surface. Fender washer is larger than the one that comes on the freeze plug. Just thinking not to mar the finish. I'm sure either will work fine. I hadn't seen those eyes at Home Depot or Lowes. Nice setup.
 
#139 ·
with current design, it squeezes the rubber more than the plastic I think, but If I decide to mount them more permanent with a bolt instead of the stock hardware, I'll be sure to use 2 stainless fender washers and a stainless bolt to have everything stainless :)

Got them last night.

Lock and ride stainless by Glamisduner, on Flickr

Lock and ride stainless by Glamisduner, on Flickr
 
#150 ·
Same as mine!
 
#145 ·
Sorry justin....... I should have made a more clear response. The eyenuts are the cats meow for a simple clean conversion from a freeze plug to a lock-n-ride type tiedown, and stainless is top shelf, no doubt. Personally, I prefer to use a larger fender washer on the top for load distribution than what comes with the freeze plug. I was refering more to the folks that thought an eyebolt without a t-nut, or an oversize flatwasher underneath was the answer. I was just trying to explain the need for a t-nut when an eyebolt or an eyehook is used. Mine work great, and I'm thankfull for those members who clued me in to the method. I like 1/4" hardware because the t-nuts work without enlargeing the recess in the rubbers, and are more than heavy enough for bungy cord applications. I did use 5/16" eyebolts for the inside of my cargo box, and it lets me tie down a jack inside the box. I made some and gave to my neighbor to use in his Razor just because they were so much fun to make for so little money compared to what Polaris wants for basically the same thing. Has to be one of the best low buck build ideas ever. On to a cheap and easy flag mount.
 
#153 ·
Mine work fairly well for that load. Straight-up pulls, not so well
Have 4 securing a Plano box on the Sportsman and it has come loose occasionally, on fairly bumpy terrain, enough that I put a cinch strap on it.

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