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Snorkels

5K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  mrwilliamsrzr800 
#1 ·
Fabbed up a couple of snorkels . . . .one for the PVT intake and one for the airbox. Not really planning on going that deep, but looking for cleaner air. I have a couple of pre-filter covers that I will put over the ends.
 

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#4 ·
What pics do you want to see . . . . under the bed?
 
#5 ·
I used a 3" to 2" rubber adapter . . . . sealed tight. Not as pretty underneath, but you don't see it.
 

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#7 ·
Yes, the center piece is exhaust, and I didn't touch it . . . it is stock. I only trimmed the air intake slightly to get the adapter on, and didn't have to do anything for the PVT intake. I have two UNI pre-filters on order that I will slide over the end of the snorkels for additional filtration.
 
#14 ·
You're looking at 2/3 of it. I don't have any pics but I do have the instructions and the way squirrel connected the 2 intakes is exactly like the Extreme instructions. I'm sure Brad (Extreme) is correct in not posting pictures. 1/2 the people would look at them and go "duh--I can do that". The other half would say "that's IT?? No custom parts to replace the stock blow-molded junk?" :rolleyes:

Well yes I CAN do that and yes I would pay $160 for a kit that included new plumbing to replace the thin stock stuff. And I would even pay a bit more for a kit that didn't come up thru holes in the bed. Given the heat and limited space back there this may be the only place to mount snorkels.

Now personally I don't plan to ever ride in water up to my ribs so a snorkel isn't really needed. Adequate clean air is what's needed. I truly believe the stock setup would work perfectly if the CVT fan didn't suck air from the same box that the engine does. I'm looking to remove the CVT duct and connect it by flex hose somewhere else. The WHERE is still the question. I've got all winter to figure this out. If someone else gets there first I'll buy him a beer :D
 
#10 ·
Ok . . . here's what I did (high level):

1. Went to Lowes and bought
two 3" to 2" rubber pipe adapters in the plumbing section.​
a 5' piece of 2" sch 40 PVC pipe (note: they have black and white . . . I bought the white and painted it, but I would buy the black).​
two 2" pipe connectors (to join the two pipes together . . . you can find these in black as well)​
then I bought two covers to keep the water from going down the tubes. I'm not sure what they are called, but you can see them in the pictures. They are gray in the store and fit on a 2" pipe. I cut some of the plastic out of it to ensure good air flow​
I ordered two UNI pre-filters that I will slide over the ends to keep dust, leaves, bugs, etc. from being sucked into the tubes. These are not pictured as I haven't recieved them yet. They were just under $40 on e-Bay for a set of two/black.​

2. Then I removed the bed entirely from the RZR.

3. I have a Roto-Zip tool and shaved just a very small amount of the lip off of the air intake tube for the motor, and slid the 3" rubber fitting over it and tightend it down with the band clamp.

4. For the PVT intake, I just put the 3" side of the adapter on with no modification and tightened the clamp.

5. Now, one adapter sits higher than the other, so I had to do some measuring with some pipe in the adaptors to determine how high I wanted my snorkels. I cut some pipe and inserted the pipe all the way into the adapter until it bottomed out and got a level to ensure they were straight. Then I made some marks on the cross-bar so I would know where they should line up. I took the pipes out of the adapters, put some paper towel in the top of them to keep the shavings out, and set the bed back in place.

6. Then I took the pipes and lined them up with the marks on the cross bar to determine where they would sit on the top of the bed rail. I outlined the pipe on the bed with a pencil and started cutting (very slowly and carefully) with my Roto-Zip. I would continously keep checking where I needed to trim next by placing the snorkel in and out of position. Eventually, the hole was fully cut and the tube dropped down and into the adapter.

7. Once the holes were cut, then I marked where the tube an inch or so above the bed line and removed them. I cut them there because the tubes are too long to install the bed. That is why you need the two joining pieces (sorry for all of the layman's terms) . . . I'm obviously not a plumber.

8. With all of the pieces cut, I used plastic primer and then painted them. Installed the tubes and re-installed the bed. Finished!!

Start to finish (including figuring out what parts I needed, etc. was about 6 hours (not including paint drying time, etc.). I have about $40 in the parts, plus another $35-$40 for the pre-filters. Not bad for cleaner air. If I was really serious about going into deep water, then I would have snorkeled the PVT exhaust, but I'm more of a trail/mud rider than anything. I have a boat and a jet-ski for the water :D

Hope this helps. I'm sure the kits you buy are good . . . nothing against them . . . . they might be better. This works for me.
 

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#11 ·
looks like you did a fine job. but why did you use a coupler above the bed. they are not glued are they? a rubber couple i think is the answer there. also, looking at your pictures, couldn't you exaust the belt by cutting at the mouth of it and just adding a 45 degree elbow without too much trouble? that way all is snorkelled? maybe i'm not looking at it right? bud
 
#17 ·
If you are really expecting to go into deep water, then I would use the rubber couplers . . . . I'm not. I think the connectors I used look cleaner. That's why I didn't do the exhaust . . . .. just not planning to go in water over my ribs either.
 
#18 ·
That's exactly right . . . it is an electric service piece. I figured if I didn't like it when I was done, I'd pitch it and try something else, but I like the looks and it keeps the water out.

I just like to do my own stuff. I think the kits are good. There are times when I have time to tinker around with stuff and other times when I just want to get it done and I don't want to have to think about it . . . . during those times, I buy a kit. There will always be a market.

As far as the comment that the rubber mounts didn't seem to seal very tight . . . . . . I took the band off of the adapter first, then pushed the adapter over the stock pipes. Then I bent the clamp by hand into the general shape of the stock tube and tightened it down. It sure seemed to seal up tight. I couldn't see any light around the seal, and that clamp was TIGHT! Now, if I were planning for it to see a lot of water, I might do a few more tests on it, but it looked pretty good to me.

This post is just in the spirit of sharing . . . .if it works for you great . . . if not, no skin off my back.
 
#15 ·
i dont know, there are alot of guys out there that dont have the tools or knowhow to take on the simplest projects. the skidplate/body/and add on guys won't go out of business because a few do-it-yourselfers decide to take on a simple project like this. i know it cant be hard to figure out, it's just a matter of do you want someone to give you the answers or do you want to figure it out yourself and save a few bucks?and possibly ruin a $10,000.00 toy
 
#20 ·
I just made sure that the clamp was well under the rib on both intakes. For the engine air intake, I had to shave the outside ends of the ribs just a bit to get the adaptor to slide over the intake. It went on nice and tight.

The engine intake will sit higher than the other. . .. . . you just have to make the pipe longer.
 
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