I've been on the fence for many months trying to decide if a snorkel setup is right for me. I don't like cutting big holes in my plastic but snorkeling the intake appears to be the cheapest path to cleaner air to my cylinders.

Installing a snorkel.

There have been several members who've posted a tip or 2 and some pictures of the installation of snorkels on a Rzr. I tried to find this scattered info prior to diving into the job myself. Here then is my contribution. I don't break any new ground here, just an attempt to pull it all together into one how-to post with instructions, pics and a material list.

First a disclaimer: There's more than one way to skin this cat. I actually bought enough extra components to do the job a couple different ways. What I ended up with is just what seemed to make the most sense to me at the time.

A note on ABS: I wanted to use black ABS components in making my snorkel because I didn't want to deal with painting or coating white PVC parts. Inevitable scratches would need to be touched up or left to stand out like a sore thumb. ABS isn't common in my locale and I assumed that's because it's inferior to the very common PVC. The counter guy at the Genova factory outlet informed me that ABS is actually superior to PVC and has better shock resistance so in some areas of the country where the ground is rocky ABS is preferred for underground use. Whatever.
Genova sells the parts direct and will ship.
Genova Office and Factory Directory
You might also try a camper/mobile home supply since ABS is commonly used in their plumbing.

Here's what I used:
(all 2")

3- 90 deg. elbows
3- 90 deg. street elbows
1- 45 elbow
1- 45 street
1- 22 elbow
6- 2" rubber couplers
5 feet of 2" pipe
Small can of ABS cement

Total cost of supplies was $43.00 + tax. Half the cost was for the 6 rubber couplers ($4 each!).

Remove the bed, seats, access door, upper air box (2 plastic rivets), belt exhaust (2 rivets & hose clamp), and coil.

Don't cement anything until all is assembled and everything fits. It's easy to wiggle pipes in rubber couplers and twist pipes in elbows to finesse them into the correct location. You are aiming for the lower belt snorkel to be centered at the frame with its 2 companions 3.5" center-to-center each side.

Upper belt snorkel:
Loosen clamp and remove plastic duct along with the stock coupler.
Install 2" coupler, 90 deg. street elbow, 3.5" length of pipe and a 45 elbow.

Lower belt snorkel:
Loosen the hose clamp attaching the factory coupler to the plastic duct and remove the duct, keeping the factory coupler installed to the CVT housing. Try not to remove this coupling as it's extra aggravation trying to reinstall it. Install a 90 deg. street elbow into the factory coupler, 2" length of pipe to act as a coupler, 2" rubber coupler, 90 street elbow and a 45 street.
Here's what it should look like at this point:


Air intake:
Remove the plastic duct and saw off the top until a 2" rubber coupler fits tightly over it.


(I did try a 3X2 coupler stretched over the top of the duct but couldn't get a good seal)
5" (more/less to adjust) of 2" pipe, 22 deg. elbow. The distance from the top edge of the frame to the bottom surface of the bed where the pipes will poke through is 7.5". All 3 snorkels need to be a couple inches longer to insert up into the rubber couplers above the bed. So cut 3 lengths of pipe to bring the snorkels up 9-10" above frame.
So far:


Now work on the bed.
Apply a strip of masking tape to the top edge of the bed/intake hood. Measure & mark the centerline. Mark a line 3.5" to either side of center. Cross these 3 lines where the top flat surface is beveled downward towards the cabin.


Center punch the 3 crosses and use a 2.5" holesaw to drill the 3 holes.


With a sharp holesaw there will be almost no filing or cleanup needed to the plastic. Just file or sand away the fuzzies.


Test fit the bed over the pipes. The fly in the ointment is the 22 degree elbow. It needs to be low enough not to hang up the bed. Wiggle/twist/trim the components to get the pipes straight and mostly plumb. Honestly they come out fine without any fiddling needed. The rubber couplers that will be on top of the bed will hide any slight angle or unevenness in the pipes.

Remove the bed and mark the position and insertion depth of the pipes & elbows with tape & a marker so when you start cementing the joints you can return them to the same position. Once the joints are lubed with cement it's very easy to insert the pipe deeper into the socket, messing up your alignment. Go ahead & glue all the parts together except the last 3 pieces of pipe up top. Install the bed and use a length of masking tape to mark a level line on all 3 pipes.


Trim them to length and then glue them in place.

Mount the bed.
Install 2" rubber couplers. Measure & cut 3 lengths of pipe to locate your final 90 deg. elbows where you want them. The cut list assumes mounting the elbows so they just peek over the rollbar. Buy more pipe if you plan to take them all the way to the roof.

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Now a 2-Rzr household.
Romeo, MI
http://tinyurl.com/8ltm8
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Nice! Do you put an outer ware on the snorkel for the intake to help keep water and "stuff" out?

That is a clean install!!

Well there's a story to my answer. I wanted to test them without the additional filter just to see if they will be the total answer to the dust problem. Most snorkelers have reported NO dust passing thru the filter after the mod. So I left them open since that's how the kits are that you buy from Extreme and others. In sand I was impressed--about a dozen grains of sand after many hours of use in the dunes. My results in fine talcum-like trail dust weren't so good. WAY better than the stock performance but my filter did get very dirty and a slight amount of dust still got through and could be seen on the throttle plate.

So I had planned to put Outerwears socks over the intakes and now it looks like this extra layer of filtration may be advised if you run in this type of fine suspended dust (I was deliberately riding in the rear so I would get maximum dust exposure). I ordered a pair of water-resistant pre-filters this morning. I cut out foam plugs to go in the ends of the intake elbows to fill out the prefilters. Dust has a better chance of falling off the socks if they are filled out rather than floppy or sucked inside the elbow.

The Outerwears part number for a size that fits over the end of a 2" PVC elbow is 20-2265. It's got an elastic tie that fits over 2.75" and is 2.5" tall.

Unreal...all that and dust still gets through to the TB.

Any idea whats needed to take the vent lines to the top? Isn't there 4 of them total that need to be vented too? Can you post some pics of the outerwears on when you get them plz. This is a very good post and I think im gonna snorkel mine myself they look as if they were almost made to be snorkeled really easy! THANKS for your time in this write-up!

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Jeffro

08' Green Polaris Rzr (Gen 3)
26" ITP Mudlite XTR's on 12" Vision Bruiser Wheels
Deluxe Front & Rear Brushguards
3500lb Polaris Winch

To be thorough there are 8 vent lines that need to be run front diff, rear diff, trans, transfer case, fuel tank, and 3 you have to find. 1 is on the bottom of the throttle body, 1 is the crankcase vent hose there is a slice about an inch long in it you have to cut the hose and put a T in it. I also reccomend putting a check valve in it (us plastic.com 1/4" check valve) and last the radiator overflow tank lid drill the hole on the lid bigger put a 90" brass pipe to hose connector on and run the lines it's that easy. lol

Front Diff
Rear Diff
Gas Tank
2 Crank case

The other person on my team runs a razor, and he has always ran a uni filter on the snorkel end, and a uni filter in the box. He has never seen dust at the TB. I personally would add a uni with a outerwear.

Also, your install looks super clean, but I see one thing I might add. I would add a second 90 to your cvt exhaust. Main reason is so when your washing it you don't have to go get a bag, rig it up over the hole.... Another reason is rain. You sometimes get caught in it, and it doesn't always go straight down.

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Just Muddin!

If you ride in deep water or mud, silicone the front of the headlight housings they leak around the lense. One I haven't thought about but was an issue on a Polaris 600 I had, is the weep hole on the water pump, someone told me to silicone it to keep crap out of it.

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08 RZR
26" Bighorns, SS112's, Snorkeled, stereo

I wish there was such a thing as a 110 degree elbow...
I agree that I should turn down the end but an additional 90 will interfere with my tote. All I really need is a little "eyebow" or overhang. Plastic pipe is so easy to work with I'll probably bandsaw the thick hub end off another elbow--at an angle--and glue it on the 90 to make it a 110

I'm not worried about getting a little water in the CVT case--it'll dry up quickly once that big fan gets going. But I'll go to a little extra trouble to prevent it if I can.

And here's the little water-resistant booties & CVT exhaust "hood":



It'll be awhile before I will be able to ride in the kind of heavy dust cloud I did a couple weeks ago. The prefilters HAVE to help cut the amount of dust entering the filter box but I'm worried they'll just clog up real fast since they're small.

Thanks for the instructions. i just finished mine.

I'm getting ready to start mine. Lets just clarify, How many vent hoses need to be extended? I FIND FIVE. Front diff,Rear diff, Crankcase,transmission,gas tank. Am I leaving any out?

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"I THINK we can make it"

I snorkeled my engine breather (ditched factory air box), transmission, transfer case, front & rear diff and fuel tank.

I ran the two diff lines together w/ a T fitting, thereby only requiring four small 3/8" lines and 1 larger line for the engine breather. I routed two 3/8" lines to each side of the roll bar. The engine breather was routed to the roll bar just to the outside of the smaller vent lines.

If you re-route the engine breather, make sure you install a filter on the end.


Hope this helps,

Brandon

andy revert back to my thread for a list of vents.