Part 3 – BED – ENGINE REMOVAL
Bed Removal
As previously stated, I’m not going into too much detail on this relatively simple task.
The link below shows an excellent UTube Video on HOW-TO submitted by one of our own members – Mark (guy09035)
Bed Removal Utube by Mark(guy48065)RZRforum member
(Guy48065) and is very helpful to a new RZR owner.
YouTube - bedremove.avi
OR
BED Removal, Post #8
http://www.rzrforums.net/projects-how/38529-bed-removal.html
This writeup was posted on another forum and provides nuts,bolts,details
http://www.prcforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=4992&highlight=bed+removal
As I remove my bed quite frequently, I got tired of having to remove the rear bumper to get the bed off, so I removed the lower rear bed arms.
This was not my original idea, picked the concept up from Kev (quadnkev)
Quick Tip to aid in Bed Removal w/o having to Remove the Rear Bumper
November 14th, 2010, 10:07 AM
quadnkev
Feedback Score: 13 reviews, 100%
First Name: Kev
My RZR: Red
Member #610
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Tualatin Oregon
Posts: 1,512
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Re: Bed Removal
Here is my post (#42) in the Budget Mods to make the bed easier to remove
if you have a rear bumper.
http://www.rzrforums.net/projects-how/projects-how/projects-ho...et-mods-3.html
ENGINE REMOVAL
Drain Oil from Engine
Remove both rear tires. Make certain to use some adequate method of supporting the weight of unit(ie. Jack Stands)
Remove Skid Plate underside of frame
*** No details as each individual has different setups
Remove ALL Exhaust Components from the Engine/Vehicle
*** No details as each individual has different setups
Remove the Rear Bolt-in Brace 6 bolts
Remove 2 bolts on the Rear
Remove the 4 bolts on the Front
Firmly pull up on the Front of the brace, noting that the Coil should still be attached
Remove BOTH Seats, Rear Seat Brace, Service Panel, Clutch Cover, Primary/Secondary Clutches. These items were addressed in the following 3 posts.
Removal of Both Clutches
Clutch Assembly / Disassembly Part 1
http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-dri...isassembly-re-installation-both-clutches.html
Clutch Assembly / Disassembly Part 2
http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-dri...disassebly-re-installation-both-clutches.html
Clutch Assembly / Disassembly Part 3
http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-dri...disassebly-re-installation-both-clutches.html
This will give access to the Inner Clutch Cover. There are 3 Retainer Screws on the Primary side and 3 Bolt/Washers on the Secondary side. Remove these and CAREFULLY remove the Inner Clutch Cover(pull slowly as it is sealed around each of the clutch openings).
** note that there is a RUBBER gasket/seal around the edge of the Inner Clutch Cover.
** this may need to be either cleaned or replaced depending on its condition
** DO NOT lose it AND if removed, BE CERTAIN to place it back into groove of the
inner clutch cover
Remove the Clutch Inlet Duct
Remove the radiator cap to aid in draining
Place an appropriate fluid catching container under the rear water line. Disconnect the rear water line from the engine.
Drain as much of the fluid as possible, THEN use a WET/DRY to pull remaining fluid from the engine. One could clamp the water line to the engine to prevent spilling more fluid, then pull and tie the water line out of the way.
Loosen/remove the 2 bolts that hold the thermostat cover in place
AT THIS POINT, I PREFER TO DISCONNECT “ALL” ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS/HARNESS
Below is a QUICK Summary Recap
1. Battery Leads @ the BATTERY
2. Spark Plug Leads @ the PLUGS
3. Ignition Coil Harness connection
4. Transmission Speed Sensor Harness connection
5. CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) Harness connection located Drivers side, Low, Slightly Behind Transmission
6. Stator/Alternator Harness connection located between engine and transmission on the rear or back side HARD TO REACH
7. Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor harness connection located below and to the left of the thermostat
8. TBAP (Temperature Barometric Air Pressure) Harness connection located on top side of air box
9. TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) Harness connection located on the rear side of the throttle body
10. Fuel Injector Harness connections (2) located near the Coil. Be certain to label the position of each in regards to the PTO/MAG side hookups. PTO-Front injector, MAG-Rear injector. Another method to determine each of connections is by looking at wires. The PTO connection has Red/Black and Whites wires, the MAG connection has Red/Black and White/Black wires.
2.Spark Plug Leads
3.Ignition Coil Harness Connection
4.Transmission Speed Sensor Connection
5.Crankshaft Position Sensor Harness Connection
6.Stator/Alternator Harness Connection
7.Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Connection
8.TBAP Sensor Connection
9.TPS Sensor Connection
10.Fuel Injector Harness Connections
Disconnect both the Red and the Black cables from the starter
Remove the Oil Dip Stick, then remove the Oil Filler Tube
Remove the bolt holding the fuel injector rail in place
Pull the injector rail slowly yet firmly away from the head
Loosen the fuel quick disconnect hinge and disconnect the fuel line. Have towel ready as some fuel will run of the hose.
Loosen the Throttle Body Hose Connection as well as the Hose connection to the Air Box/Filter
Disconnect Air Box from Throttle Body connector
Disconnect Throttle Body from Intake
Remove the Air Box/Filter
*** No details as each individual has different setups
Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body
Remove the 5 screws holding the cover to the side of the throttle body
This will expose the inside for review purposes
Remove the pressure from the throttle stop, THEN remove the SMALL Holder that
keeps the throttle cable attached to the stop. SMALL BRASS looking piece, DO NOT LOSE IT
Loosen the nut that hold the cable in the throttle body, THEN turn or screw the entire cable until it can be pulled/removed from the end of the throttle body
DO NOT Bend or Kink the Throttle cable as you will either break it or cause binding later.
AFTER disconnecting and removal of the Throttle cable, gently twist, pull the Throttle body from the hose connection. This will allow for inspection/cleaning if necessary.
Remove the retaining nut from upper portion of the stabilizer bar linkage bushing
Remove the bracket that hold the rear stabilizer bar in place 4 bolts, take care not to lose or misplace the bushings
Remove the stabilizer bar
Plate holding engine to transmission.
***NOTE prior to remove the engine/transmission bracket, I would suggest placing a small jack directly beneath the
Transmission. Just raise the jack sufficiently enough that when the Engine is Removed that the Transmission will not sag.
This is also extremely beneficial when it comes time to reinstall the engine.
Remove the Outer 4 bolts nuts first, then you remove the inner 2 nuts
You can now remove the mounting bracket
Need to unhook the engine from the motor mount. I PREFER to leave the mount
attached to the engine.
Remove the 2 bolts that hold the right motor mount to the frame located under the mount
Taking a Firm grasp of the engine, should be able to lift gently/slowly to clear the transmission
At this point you should be able to lift the engine up and rest it on the side rail.
Now you can remove the engine and place it on the work bench area.