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FYI-Holz Stage 3 Big Bore Engine Blueprinting/Rebuild A-Z

75K views 111 replies 45 participants last post by  CA 800 
#1 ·
Back in early June, I decided that I would get the Holz Stage 3 Big Bore Kit and another engine. Had and still have the modified Stock Engine w/HPD mods so I didn't want to SCREWup a GOOD thing. Anyway, purchased an engine w/Holz kit installed installed by one of the forum members offering a Awesome Deal on a COMPLETE engine. Without going into ANY details, the USED engine was U S E D, so I decided to do a Total Teardown,Rebuild,Replace of ALL parts. Otherthan than the upper/lower engine case housings, EVERYTHING is New. Engine is blueprinted/documented with All the New Parts.

I want to PERSONALLY THANK Matt at Holz Racing for his help/assistance in my project. As usual, he and staff have gone FAR beyond what was necessary(Information/Engine Analysis), SINCE the Stage 3 was not purchased directly from them. KUDOS, HOLZ

I will begin posting pictures of the Teardown,Cleanup,Rebuild as a Series so that if anyone wants to attempt this relatively easy process, they will be a READER's Digest to aid/assist them in this project.

Stay tuned in as I'm into the Engine PowderCoating Stages now in preparation for the Reassembly.
 
G
#69 ·
Hey buddy, keep up the good work! I plan on following in your footsteps before long....As you know from our last ride a few weeks ago my water pump started to leak.., and after this past Friday ,for a try out to go ride with our other group of friends, My rear diff started sounding like I have rocks in it and for the first time I started using oil:sad: Talking about being depressed! I'm pretty much over it if I dont get some help from my pals...

I'm counting on you to help me get the motor right ( and of course..bigger and better..:shhh:just gotta talk T into it if you know what I mean).

But for right now, I just need some good solid expert advice on the rear diff...

But anyway, I am most certainly sure that Holz Stage 3 big bore is the direction I am going! I have all winter to work on it so I'll talk to you soon about it. Thanks again buddy!
 
#71 · (Edited)
Holz BLUEPRINT/REBUILD Main




As stated MUCH EARLIER, the intent of this post is NOT an exact HOW-TO, but rather a Guide for anyone wishing to rebuild their engine. I have attempted to gear it toward the individual that is either a beginner or an intermediate mechanically inclined person. I unfortunately decided to document my work, A F T E R, I had already started the process of rebuilding the engine. SOOOOOO, I chose to show the process integrated between the teardown and rebuild.

My decision to rebuild grew out of concern rather than necessity, due to the circumstances of my purchase of an engine that already had the Holz Stage 3 Big Bore Kit installed.

Here are just some Quick, BEFORE and AFTER pics.

Engine

BEFORE




AFTER





For some folks, some sections may be TOO simple or TOO detailed while others may state THAT’s NOT the way I did it. Whatever may be the case, IF you don’t like the writeup or are one of the people that ALWAYS disagree, D O N ‘ T Read it 

At the very best, this is a very daunting task due to the level to which it may be pursued and I will make every attempt to point folks in the direction of a topic which may have already been posted/documented. Every attempt will be taken to give credit to the individual that did the posting. In addition, I will reference documentation material from both Polaris and Holz.

GENERAL GUIDELINES/Recommendations



Should I undertake rebuilding my engine?

Skill Levels
None – Get it done by someone else that has done the particular rebuild that you are
Considering. Ask for REFERENCES if you don’t know the individual
Personally.
Minimal – Consider removing the engine yourself then letting an experienced person
check & replace parts, BUT you can shop and make the purchases based
their findings/recommendations.
***** Valuable Side Note – this could save you a great deal of money if you are
considering having a Dealer perform the actual work for you.

Average – IF possible secure a Service Manual for the particular year of your unit,
talk with anyone that has performed the rebuild if you are uncertain of a
particular aspect of the job. If you don’t feel like you can undertake the
entire job, just pull the engine, otherwise GO FOR IT
Good/Excellent – GO FOR IT

I’ve heard this more than ONE time,
BUT I ONLY WANT or NEED an UPPER END REBUILD

This statement or fact may be entirely accurate and true, however, it does NOT take that much more time to pull the entire engine, so that at least you could check the condition of the bearings in the BOTTOM END. If no parts need to replaced in the BOTTOM END, then you’re only out the cost of gasket maker, a few gaskets and maybe a seal HOWEVER you now have the PEACE OF MIND of knowing the condition of the Crankshaft, Cam, Balance Shaft, Water/Oil Pump and Oil Pickup.


Take your Time, it’s not a race. NEVER,NEVER,NEVER get into a rush or take any unnecessary shortcuts. This only leads to broken/misplaced parts as well as additional cost if you have to RE-purchase. If you have someone to assist you or even better, to take a LEAD in the work, the job will be much easier and more fun. Some may not like this statement, BUT, if you enjoy Alcohol you’d be better off putting it into the fuel rather than into yourself


TOOLS - If your tool inventory is inadequate or if you don’t have some of the specialized tools, consider RENTAL, ie. Auto Zone,O’Reily,Advanced Auto, etc. Most of these stores have tools for FREE, (will need to leave a deposit for most, but it’s refundable)


CLEAN,CLEAN,CLEAN – This point should be emphasized both in terms of preparation or as well as in the actual rebuild process. This is not only in terms of the actual engine BUT also in the workplace or work area. I always have a HUGE supply of Latex/Acrylic gloves not just to keep my paws clean, but if I’ve spent time degreasing some engine parts, I definitely do not want to get them dirty or contaminated.
Degrease/Clean Engine/Engine area while the engine is still in the unit. I have found that Dawn Dishwashing Liquid or Purple Power(Walmart) are two products, that both do an extremely good job at grease removal. Some folks like to use a pressure washer which is OK, however care should be taken not to spray sensitive area such as rubber boots, gasket joints, etc. This should be common sense. If you don’t own a pressure washer MOST TOWNS have a Car Wash so you could use their facilities.

Partial List of Cleaning Products/Supplies/Tools
Latex or Acrylic Gloves
Gunk or any type of Hand Cleaner
Shop Towels (either paper or cloth), I prefer paper so they may discarded
Dawn Dishwashing Liquid
PurplePower(Walmart)
Engine Degreaser (IF YOU WANT TO USE IT)
Spray Brake Cleaner
WD-40
Denatured Alcohol
Acetone (warning-know what you’re putting this product on)
Scotch Brite Pads
Plastic scraper or putty knife
Small Wire Brushes (Brass & Stainless Steel) use for cleaning threads on bolts or to
Remove Rust spots
OLD Toothbrush (can be used to remove grease in small areas)
Wet/Dry Sand paper (just a couple of sheets, 600,1000,1500,2000 grit)

GET ORGANIZIED – This applies not only to securing help/assistance, tools, cleaning supplies but take it a step further.
It’s not that I’m a NEAT FREAK, but I learned from my Grandpa, KEEP SIMILAR parts together when disassembling an engine. The way that I grew up we were POOR, so we used tin cans to places bolts, parts in.
The CHEAPIEST Investment that you can make is to purchase a box of quart as well as gallons ZipLock Bags. As you remove/disassembly parts/components, place the items in the Bags and LABEL them. Not only will this assist in putting everything back together, but there are some internal parts that are either oily or greasy, so this allows you recognize what should be cleaned prior to reassembly.

BLUEPRINTING – This term most commonly gets misused, however taken in the context of this writeup, it Simply means having access to the tolerances/specs of the engine components(accessible in a Service Manual), access to the measuring tools/instruments necessary to check the specs, THEN test/check the specifications/tolerances against your installed parts. If any parts are either close to or
out of spec. REPLACE THEM with NEW Parts. I have also found that it is advisable to check the tolerances/specs of the New parts to ensure that they are not defective. IF you are uncomfortable or DO NOT understand how to check these specifications, have an experienced tool/die/machinist person check them for you. IF YOU HAPPEN to use/purchase USED parts, this suggestion becomes paramount, not saying that the person you acquired the parts from was DISHONEST when questioned about their condition, but, PERHAPS, THEY JUST DIDN’T KNOW. Better to be SAFE than SORRY.


2008 POLARIS SERVICE MANUAL-(STOCK ENGINE SPEC’S)

SPEC SHEETS




PICTURES/WRITEUPS some of the MORE CRITICAL Evaluations















Table of Contents


Part 1 – Tool Overview PLUS READERS DIGEST Version of Engine Removal

Part 2 – Tips/Tricks/Techniques/How-To’s

Part 3 – Bed/Engine Removal

Part 4 – Engine Rebuild Bottom End

Part 5 - Engine Rebuild Top End
 
#72 · (Edited)
Part 1 - TOOL OVERVIEW PLUS R E A D E R S D I G E S T Version of ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

For most Builders or GEARHEADS this section may seem to be a Waste, however for the 1st Timer/Beginner or Intermediate Skilled individual, this section may explain some NEW TOOLs as well as some do’s/don’ts of their usage.


Example of Sockets – Both 5/8”

Sockets are available as shown in 2 versions—The socket on the Left has 6 sides while the socket on the Right has 12 sides


Socket or Rachett Wrench--- The most common sizes shown ¼” 3/8” ½”. The different size dimensions are referring to the end of the sockets to which the wrench is attached

The dial on the back of the wrench is used to set the locking device in the wrench so that when the wrench is moved, it is either tightening or loosening the nut



Regular or manual wrenches are available in various sizes with the gripping end either closed or open


Various types of Drivers


Allen Wrenches are used to remove bolts/screws that have an opening in the top center as oposed to those types of bolts/screws that have the gripping edge on the outside of the head







Use of Regular or Metric Tools

Some of the MORE common conversion sizes are listed below. One may use or substitute the use of either size, dependant upon what tools are available.

SAE – Metric conversion
5/16” – 8mm
3/8” – 10mm
7/16” – 11mm
½” – 13mm
9/16” – 14mm
5/8” – 16mm
11/16” – 17mm
¾” – 19mm



Torque Wrench- This tools allows the user to set the amount of pressure or force that will be applied when tightening a bolt/screw. Various types are available using a calibrated twist dial on the end of the wrench so that a designated ft/lbs – (Foot Pound) can be set.

**It should be noted that when the tool make the sound of a “CLICK”, that the pre-set pressure has been met and NO-further action is required or should be taken. If tightening a bolt/screw beyond this point could either damage the tool or WORSE, BREAK the head of the bolt/screw OFF.
**It should also be noted that when tightening or apply torque to a bolt/screw, I PREFER that the FINAL pressure be divided into 2 or 3 separate tightening steps so as NOT to twist off the head of the bolt/screw, strip the threads, or to STREACH the bolt/screw by the application of TOO much force.
**Example-Cylinder Head Bolts require a FINAL Torque setting of 35 ft/lbs. I would have the initial setting for 20 ft/lbs, the 2nd setting for 35 ft/lbs, THEN allow appro. 1 minute for resting or set, THEN turn an Additional 90 degrees(about ¼ turn) to finalize the set.



Feeler Gauge-multi-bladed tool with varying thicknesses used for gapping spark plugs as well as measuring side-to-side tolerances


Dial Caliper Gauge-used to measure inside, outside, set and depth measurements


The following 2 instruments may be used to check or take bore measurements but require the use of an outer micrometer and tend to be a little less accurate than the Dial Bore Gauge. However, since we may only be interested to determining tolerances, these may be used.
Small Bore Gauge

Telescopic Bore Gauges

Outer Micrometer-used to take readings from the Small and Dial Bore Gauges


Dial Bore Gauge-used to check/take precise measurements of a bore


Piston Ring Compressor-used to compress the piston rings when placing the pistons back into the engine. There are many types available as this is only one example.


Valve Spring Compressor-used to compress valve springs OUTSIDE of engine


Later or Acrylic Gloves-use self explanatory


Battery operated tool-VERY USEFUL for the removal of torx bolts as well as screws. With the use of a common adapter, Torx, Phillips, Regluar or Nut Driver may be used.




Minimal List of Tools Required for Engine work

Strangely enough, one does not need to have a TOTAL or FULL set of tools to service or disassemble an engine.




Example of tools required


Regular Screwdriver

Phillips Screwdriver

Torx Drivers
25
27
30

3/8” Socket Wrench
following 3/8” sockets(drivers)
5mm
7mm
8mm
10mm
13mm

3/8” to ¼” adapter
short ¼” extension

following ¼” sockets(drivers)
5mm
7mm
8mm

Soft Rubber mallet

Torque Wrench with a capacity of at least 90ft/lbs of pressure

T A G I T - B A G I T
Ok…Here is where you should label/bag the parts that you remove using the quart/gallon zip lock bags recommended earlier


READERS DIGEST VERSION OF ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
Items Circled 1 – 35.
To reassemble reverse sequence items 35 – 1
Socket/torx sizes for each function are underlined



















1. Remove Valve Cover-7 bolts Bag

Vacuum Fluid from top of head

2. Remove Head Bolts-6 bolts Bag

3. Remove Rocker Arms-4
Label/Mark

4. Remove Push Rods-4
Label/Mark

5. Remove the Head

Vacuum Fluid from around cylinder

6. Remove the Cylinder(tap lightly with rubber hammer

7. Remove Lifters by reaching inside cylinder and pushing out from the inside-4
Label/Mark

8. Remove Outer Circlips from Piston Pins- Bag

9. Remove Piston Pins and Pistons
Label/Mark Position and Direction of Pistons IF BEING REUSED

10. Remove Stator Cover-10 bolt Bag

11. Remove Flywheel Nut and Washer Bag

12. Use Gear puller to remove the Flywheel Bag
NOTE : Do not insert bolts deeply otherwise damage may/will occur to the Stator

13. Remove Starter Bendix, WATCH for 2 washers,one behind, one infront Bag

14. Remove Starter-2 bolts Bag

15. Remove Water Pump Cover-7 bolts Bag

16. Remove Stator Wire Tie Down-2 bolts Bag

17. Remove Water Pump Nut, Washer, Impellor Bag

18. Remove Last bolts from Engine Cover-2 bolts Bag

19. Using WHITE marker, HIGHLIGHT Timing Marks

20. Remove Camshaft bolt, washer Bag

21. Remove Camshaft Gear Bag
NOTE : Camshaft gear is comprised of 2 individual gears with 3 springs between
EXERCISE CARE when removing otherwise gear with separate

22. Remove Counterbalance Shaft bolt, washer, gear Bag
NOTE : Must turn the FLAT side of the end of the Camshaft to face toward the gear

NO NEED to Remove Crankshaft Gear UNLESS Visible Damage to gear and/or Teeth
23. Remove Oil Pump-4 bolts Bag

24. Remove Oil Pump
NOTE : Rotors in rear of pump should be marked for reassembly if REUSED

25. Remove Camshaft Thrust Plate-3 bolts Bag

26. Remove Camshaft

27. Remove Crankcase Bolts-15 bolts Bag

28. Separate the Upper/Lower Crankcase Halves

29. Remove Counterbalance Shaft

30. Remove Crankshaft
Remove the Crankshaft Seal (RED),discard REPLACE

31. Remove Oil Baffle Weldment-4 bolts Bag

32. Remove Oil Pickup-1 bolt Bag

33. Mark position of the Crankshaft Journal Bearings before removal REPLACE

34. Mark position of the Counterbalance Shaft Journal Bearing before removal REPLACE

35. Disassemble Valves from head
Label/Mark
 
#73 · (Edited)
Part 2 - TIPS/TRICKS/TECHNIQUES/HOW-TO’s

GENERAL INFORMATION
General Information Site-Many Good Tips and How-To’s
http://www.performanceunlimited.com/library.html

Good Reference Source for Auto Repairs-Some information applies
http://www.aa1car.com/library.htm

AN Size Fitting Charts
http://www.gre6.com/ansize

Unit of Measure Charts
http://www.gre6.com/measuretable.htm

NGK Spark Plug Recommendations, helpful info
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/installation.asp#heat

NGK Spark Plug Education, good information site
http://www.ngk.com/sparkplug411.asp



HOW TO’S

IMPROVE OIL FLOW submitted by Todd (odtodd1az, crew chief for Whiplash car)


LEAKDOWN TESTING
How to Perform a Leakdown Test
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0406_cylinder_leakdown_tester/index.html

COMPRESSION TESTING
How to Perform a Compression Test
Link below submitted by Mark (guy48065) post #6
http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-dri...akdown-fuel-pressur-test-simple-question.html

General Recap of How To do a Compression Test
How to do a compression test on your engine
Measurement of Compression Pressure
1. Warm up engine.
2. Turn ignition switch off.
3. Release fuel pressure (See How to Change Fuel Filter)
4. Remove all spark plugs.
5. Disconnect distributor center cable.
6. Attach a compression tester to No. 1 cylinder.
7. Depress accelerator pedal fully to keep throttle valve wide open.
8. Crank engine (let it turn over 7 times) and record highest gauge indication.
9. Repeat the measurement on each cylinder as shown above.
Note: Always use a fully charged battery to obtain specific engine revolution.
Compression Pressure kPa (kg/cm2, psi) / RPM
Standard = 1,236 (12.6, 179) / 300
Minimum = 1,040 (10.6, 151) / 300
Difference limit between cylinders = 98 (1.0, 14) / 300
10. If cylinder compression in one or more cylinders is low, pour a small amount of engine oil into the cylinders through the spark plug hole and re-test compression.
* If adding oil helps compression, piston rings may be worn or damaged. If so, replace piston rings after checking piston.
* If pressure stays low, a valve may be sticking or seating improperly. Inspect and repair valve and valve seat.
* If compression in any two adjacent cylinders is low and if oil does not help compression, there is a leak past the gasket surface. If so, replace cylinder head gasket.

Compression Test Details - Various Internet Articles


THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
Setting Throttle Position Sensor
Adjusting/Setting the TPS (throttle position sensor) Bart (BlackBart)
http://www.rzrforums.net/projects-how/18385-alternative-method-setting-tps.html

Air Bleed Screw/TPS Adjustment – RZR Forum Member – Dave (Sparky)
The Link below has quite a bit of information
http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetrain/31164-air-bleed-screw.html

BORE GAUGES

How to Use Small Hole Bore Gauge
Rotate the knob at the base of the small hole gauge until the head is a smaller diameter than the hole being measured.
Place the gauge into the hole and use the knob to open the head until you feel a gentle pressure from the holes of the wall.
Rock the gauge back and forth in the hole to lock the head in place, then remove the gauge.
Measure the gauge's head size with a micrometer. The value given by the micrometer is the size of the hole's inner diameter.
How to Use Telescopic Bore Gauge
Rotate the knob at the base of the telescopic bore gauge until the telescopic rods extend to a size slightly larger than the hole being measured.
Insert the telescopic heads into the hole being measured at a slight angle. The heads should compress slightly.
Straighten the gauge until the telescopic rods sit squarely against the edges of the hole's walls and the base of the gauge stands vertically.
Rock the gauge gently inside the hole, then remove it.
Measure the telescopic rods with a micrometer to obtain the size of the hole's diameter.
How to Use Dial Bore Gauge
Lock a micrometer to the nominal size of the hole being measured.
Place the dial bore gauge in the micrometer so that the bore gauge's anvil and stud touch the micrometer's anvil and spindle face. Rotate the dial face on the indicator until the needle aligns with the "0" marking on the dial.
Insert the dial bore gauge in the hole. Ensure the anvil and stud are touching opposite walls and that the base of the gauge stands as vertical as possible.
Rock the gauge in the hole. Watch the indicator and record the value of farthest deviation from zero. The deviation could be either a negative or a positive value.
Add or subtract the deviation value from the original value the dial bore gauge was calibrated against to determine the diameter of the hole. For example, if the indicator was zeroed against a 3-inch micrometer measurement and the largest deviation measurement was .004 inches from the "0" on the dial face, the diameter of the hole is 3.004 inches. If the largest deviation was .004 inches to the left of the "0," the diameter of the bore is 2.996 inches.


How to Clean the TBAP Sensor and Throttle Body

SPARK PLUGS
How to Side Gap Spark Plugs
http://www.sr20-forum.com/naturally-aspirated-all-motor/16898-how-side-gap-spark-plugs.html

How to Index Spark Plugs
http://www.sr20-forum.com/naturally-aspirated-all-motor/4369-how-index-your-spark-plugs.html


SPECIFIC ENGINE RELATED TOPICS/ISSUES

How to Check Piston Ring Gap - Various Internet Articles



What is Valve Lapping & How to Do It

Honing Cylinder Walls

How to Check for Leaking Valves
After installing the valves in the head, turn the head upside down with the valves head surfaces on the top. Find a level surface and place the head on it so that the combustion chamber areas are level. Take some kerosene and slowly pour it over the combustion chamber area of each piston totally covering the surfaces of both the intake and exhaust valves. Wait about 1hr then check the intake and exhaust bowl areas of the head. If you don’t have a good seal, then you will see the fluid leak.
Another alternative method, which requires 2 separate steps, is to tilt the head on it’s side exposing either the intake or exhaust ports. Again using a level surface, fill each of the pistons ports (either intake OR exhaust) with keresone and wait about 1hr. to check. This method will also indicate whether the valve guides as well as the valve seals are leaking.

Eliminate Scratches from Head Surfaces – Todd @ Hunterworks
The following link will allow you to view a video showing how to perform this very simple but necessary task.
http://www.ridesidebyside.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5222

VALVE GUIDES
Although the Service Manual states that the Valve Guides can NOT be replaced, YOU CAN Replace them. Not a simple task, yet they are serviceable.

VALVE SEALS
The seals are an inexpensive, simple to replace item. IMO, GOOD INSURANCE POLICY to insure no leaks around the valves. There are too many types, brands to detail, so here’s a few links describing them

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/pics/vseals_b.jpg&imgrefurl=http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/ch202.htm&usg=__SMjMPaUGfNcyFHDJbtQfzck847k=&h=270&w=560&sz=21&hl=en&start=1&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=J2KkoeX7PWxaVM:&tbnh=64&tbnw=133&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dvalve%2Bseals%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DX%26rlz%3D1T4ADRA_enUS370US388%26tbs%3Disch:1

http://ppsc-inc.com/Valve_Stem_Seals_-_VSS.jpg


http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...N&rlz=1T4ADRA_enUS370US388&ndsp=20&tbs=isch:1


How to hold engine upright
If you have a wooden work bench and DON’T mind a couple of holes, THEN Drill 2 holes approximately 1.1” deep(need to be deep enough that the bottom engine bolts will go into the holes, allowing a FLUSH or FLAT mounting surface) using a 3/8" Drill Bit.



Tip on Valve / Piston Removal / Journal Bearing Replacement
Keep Pistons SEPARATE by Cylinder (note position/direction when removed, IF THEY WILL BE R E U S E D)
Rocker Arms, Push Rods, Lifters, Valves, Valve Springs, Keepers
(Number each placement area 1 – 4)
Mark position/direction of Crankshaft Journal Bearing as well as Balance Shaft Journal Bearings before Removal


WATER/OIL PUMP
How to Replace the Seals in Water/Oil Pump Posted by BlackBart and Steven(Superspuppy)
http://www.rzrforums.net/projects-how/43085-step-step-how-replace-water-oil-pump-seal.html

FUEL PUMP
Fuel Pump Alternatives 2 Goods Posts from RZR Forum Members

Aftermarket Fuel Pump Replacement
http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetrain/14111-aftermarket-fuel-pump-replacement.html

Changing the Fuel Pump
http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-drivetrain/28377-changing-fuel-pump.html

REMOVING AIR FROM COOLING SYSTEM
How to Bleed Air from the Cooling System-2008 Polaris Service Manual





PRIME OIL SYSTEM
How to Prime Oil System-2008 Polaris Service Manual(Items 1-2)
Holz Installation Guide(Items 3-9)


3. Remove Both Spark Plugs from the Engine
4. Disconnect the Coil Relay Harness
5. Disconnect the Fuel Injector Harness (both, noting reattachment)
6. Turn Ignition switch on and turn the engine over for about 8-10 seconds
7. Reinstall Both Spark Plugs from the Engine
8. Re-connect the Coil Relay Harness
9. Re-connect the Fuel Injector Harness (both, reattaching to the proper wires)

PRIME FUEL SYSTEM
 
#74 · (Edited)
Part 3 – BED – ENGINE REMOVAL



Bed Removal


As previously stated, I’m not going into too much detail on this relatively simple task.

The link below shows an excellent UTube Video on HOW-TO submitted by one of our own members – Mark (guy09035)
Bed Removal Utube by Mark(guy48065)RZRforum member
(Guy48065) and is very helpful to a new RZR owner.
YouTube - bedremove.avi
OR
BED Removal, Post #8
http://www.rzrforums.net/projects-how/38529-bed-removal.html

This writeup was posted on another forum and provides nuts,bolts,details
http://www.prcforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=4992&highlight=bed+removal


As I remove my bed quite frequently, I got tired of having to remove the rear bumper to get the bed off, so I removed the lower rear bed arms.



This was not my original idea, picked the concept up from Kev (quadnkev)
Quick Tip to aid in Bed Removal w/o having to Remove the Rear Bumper
November 14th, 2010, 10:07 AM

quadnkev
Feedback Score: 13 reviews, 100%
First Name: Kev
My RZR: Red
Member #610
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Tualatin Oregon
Posts: 1,512
(0)


Re: Bed Removal

Here is my post (#42) in the Budget Mods to make the bed easier to remove
if you have a rear bumper.
http://www.rzrforums.net/projects-how/projects-how/projects-ho...et-mods-3.html






ENGINE REMOVAL

Drain Oil from Engine

Remove both rear tires. Make certain to use some adequate method of supporting the weight of unit(ie. Jack Stands)


Remove Skid Plate underside of frame
*** No details as each individual has different setups

Remove ALL Exhaust Components from the Engine/Vehicle
*** No details as each individual has different setups

Remove the Rear Bolt-in Brace 6 bolts
Remove 2 bolts on the Rear

Remove the 4 bolts on the Front

Firmly pull up on the Front of the brace, noting that the Coil should still be attached


Remove BOTH Seats, Rear Seat Brace, Service Panel, Clutch Cover, Primary/Secondary Clutches. These items were addressed in the following 3 posts.

Removal of Both Clutches
Clutch Assembly / Disassembly Part 1
http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-dri...isassembly-re-installation-both-clutches.html
Clutch Assembly / Disassembly Part 2
http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-dri...disassebly-re-installation-both-clutches.html
Clutch Assembly / Disassembly Part 3
http://www.rzrforums.net/engine-dri...disassebly-re-installation-both-clutches.html


This will give access to the Inner Clutch Cover. There are 3 Retainer Screws on the Primary side and 3 Bolt/Washers on the Secondary side. Remove these and CAREFULLY remove the Inner Clutch Cover(pull slowly as it is sealed around each of the clutch openings).
** note that there is a RUBBER gasket/seal around the edge of the Inner Clutch Cover.
** this may need to be either cleaned or replaced depending on its condition
** DO NOT lose it AND if removed, BE CERTAIN to place it back into groove of the
inner clutch cover


Remove the Clutch Inlet Duct


Remove the radiator cap to aid in draining

Place an appropriate fluid catching container under the rear water line. Disconnect the rear water line from the engine.

Drain as much of the fluid as possible, THEN use a WET/DRY to pull remaining fluid from the engine. One could clamp the water line to the engine to prevent spilling more fluid, then pull and tie the water line out of the way.


Loosen/remove the 2 bolts that hold the thermostat cover in place



AT THIS POINT, I PREFER TO DISCONNECT “ALL” ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS/HARNESS
Below is a QUICK Summary Recap
1. Battery Leads @ the BATTERY
2. Spark Plug Leads @ the PLUGS
3. Ignition Coil Harness connection
4. Transmission Speed Sensor Harness connection
5. CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) Harness connection located Drivers side, Low, Slightly Behind Transmission
6. Stator/Alternator Harness connection located between engine and transmission on the rear or back side HARD TO REACH
7. Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor harness connection located below and to the left of the thermostat
8. TBAP (Temperature Barometric Air Pressure) Harness connection located on top side of air box
9. TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) Harness connection located on the rear side of the throttle body
10. Fuel Injector Harness connections (2) located near the Coil. Be certain to label the position of each in regards to the PTO/MAG side hookups. PTO-Front injector, MAG-Rear injector. Another method to determine each of connections is by looking at wires. The PTO connection has Red/Black and Whites wires, the MAG connection has Red/Black and White/Black wires.

2.Spark Plug Leads


3.Ignition Coil Harness Connection


4.Transmission Speed Sensor Connection


5.Crankshaft Position Sensor Harness Connection


6.Stator/Alternator Harness Connection


7.Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Connection


8.TBAP Sensor Connection


9.TPS Sensor Connection


10.Fuel Injector Harness Connections


Disconnect both the Red and the Black cables from the starter


Remove the Oil Dip Stick, then remove the Oil Filler Tube

Remove the bolt holding the fuel injector rail in place

Pull the injector rail slowly yet firmly away from the head


Loosen the fuel quick disconnect hinge and disconnect the fuel line. Have towel ready as some fuel will run of the hose.


Loosen the Throttle Body Hose Connection as well as the Hose connection to the Air Box/Filter

Disconnect Air Box from Throttle Body connector


Disconnect Throttle Body from Intake


Remove the Air Box/Filter
*** No details as each individual has different setups

Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body
Remove the 5 screws holding the cover to the side of the throttle body

This will expose the inside for review purposes

Remove the pressure from the throttle stop, THEN remove the SMALL Holder that
keeps the throttle cable attached to the stop. SMALL BRASS looking piece, DO NOT LOSE IT

Loosen the nut that hold the cable in the throttle body, THEN turn or screw the entire cable until it can be pulled/removed from the end of the throttle body


DO NOT Bend or Kink the Throttle cable as you will either break it or cause binding later.
AFTER disconnecting and removal of the Throttle cable, gently twist, pull the Throttle body from the hose connection. This will allow for inspection/cleaning if necessary.

Remove the retaining nut from upper portion of the stabilizer bar linkage bushing

Remove the bracket that hold the rear stabilizer bar in place 4 bolts, take care not to lose or misplace the bushings

Remove the stabilizer bar


Plate holding engine to transmission.
***NOTE prior to remove the engine/transmission bracket, I would suggest placing a small jack directly beneath the
Transmission. Just raise the jack sufficiently enough that when the Engine is Removed that the Transmission will not sag.
This is also extremely beneficial when it comes time to reinstall the engine.

Remove the Outer 4 bolts nuts first, then you remove the inner 2 nuts

You can now remove the mounting bracket


Need to unhook the engine from the motor mount. I PREFER to leave the mount
attached to the engine.

Remove the 2 bolts that hold the right motor mount to the frame located under the mount


Taking a Firm grasp of the engine, should be able to lift gently/slowly to clear the transmission


At this point you should be able to lift the engine up and rest it on the side rail.

Now you can remove the engine and place it on the work bench area.
 
#75 · (Edited)
Part 4 - Bottom Half Rebuild



Red Loctite to HOLD


Install Oil Pickup


Install Oil Baffle Weldment


Install New Balance Shaft Journal Bearings


Place Bearing into Groove


Side Bearing around in Groove


Method of insuring proper fit, use flat soft piece of wood, lay over bearing, gently tap with hammer


Install New Crankshaft Bearing


Place one side of Bearing into Groove


Slide Bearing around in Groove


Method of insuring proper fit, use flat soft piece of wood, lay over bearing, gently tap with hammer


Using Joe Gibbs Assembly Grease


Apply ample grease to Cam Lobes


Carefully inserting Cam into Engine Case


Grease Lube Lobes/Bearing Surfaces


Apply Grease to Balance Shaft Bearings


Install Balance Shaft


New Crankshaft Seal


Install Crankshaft and Rotate checking for clearance to Oil Baffle Weldment


Double check seating of Crankshaft seal


Oiling Crankshaft




TIP: thoroughly clean oil ports in Crankshaft using LONG pipecleaners



Everything installed/ready to seal lower case


GREAT product for sealing upper/lower case halves


Since product is slightly runny, use small paint brush to coat engine half


Engine Case read to be set


Engine Case Bolts Cleaned, loctite and gasket seal


Loctite on threads and Gasket material above threads and under bolt flange, ensuring good seal


Diagram of Bolt placement, torque sequence
 
#76 · (Edited)
Part 5 – Upper End Engine Rebuild

REFER TO THE BLUEPRINTING SPECS FOR TORQUE SPECS

Priming Lifters


Grease Lifters


Install Lifters


Install Base Plate Gasket onto Engine Case matching up alignment pins, then Place Cylinder onto Engine Case


Checking Piston Top Ring Gap


Checking Piston Second Ring Gap


Installing Inside Oil Ring


Install Lower Portion of Oil Ring


Install Upper Portion of Oil Ring



Top Ring
NOTE : Lip or Edge of Ring is placed on Facing DOWN


Top Ring Started on Piston


Proper Method of Using Feeler Gauge to Install Top Ring


Bottom Ring Started on Piston
NOTE : Feeler Gauge is used to Slide Bottom Ring over the Piston


Proper Method of Using Feeler Gauge to Install Bottom Ring


You MUST Check with the Manufacturer of the Rings to Determine the PROPER Orientation of the End Gaps of the Rings to Each Other


Test fit and Installing Pistons


Modifying Head Gasket Improved Water Flow


Install Head Gasket on Top of Cylinder


Pistons Installed/Preparing to fit circlips


Installing Piston Circlips
NOTE : Be certain to COVER UP ALL Openings into the Engine. YOU DO NOT WANT to allow the Clips to Drop Inside


After the Circlips are installed, remove towels, Lower the Head onto the Top of the Cylinder.

Oiling Head Bolts/Install w/Torque Sequence


Installing Camshaft Retainer/Use Red Threadlocker



Oil/Prime Water/Oil Pump


Install Oil Pump


Install Balance Shaft Gear, Washer, Bolt
NOTE : The Washer Concave Side must be installed facing the gear
Also the Flat Side of the Camshaft must face toward the Balance Shaft


Install Camshaft Gear, Washer and Bolt


Aligning Timing Marks



Install Stator/Engine Cover


Install Stator Holder


Install Water Pump Seal, Flywheel, Retaining Nut




Install Starter Bendix/2 Washers
Washer on Back Side

Washer on Front Side


Install Water Pump Cover use Blue Threadlocker



Install Stator Cover Gasket and Install


Oil/grease Rocker Arms


Oil and Install Pushrods and Rocker Arms


Install Valve Cover Gasket


Install Valve Cover


New Crankshaft Position Sensor
 
#81 ·
Great write up Bart! I'll have to say you have way more patience than I when it comes to explaining..now I see why its been a while for more to come out on this thread.
 
#92 ·
Thanks Jeff, but I did the same as you. Had the sucker apart, powdercoated, then decided to do the writeup. Just took a bunch of pics during the process with the help of SuperSPuppy(good friend). I've had it back together for over a month now but it's been too cold for ME to ride.
AND Besides that hate getting her MUDDY all over again.
 
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