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Alternative Method for Setting TPS

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blackbart
69K views 17 replies 14 participants last post by  Chuck Woolery  
#1 · (Edited)
You do not need the special tool that Polaris uses/sells to check your TPS voltage.

I've used this procedure in the past and was ask to put it in the HOW TO's

Picture below is an alternative method to backprobing the actual wiring harness with the paperclips.


Just opened up the TPS wiring harness. Cut,spliced,soldered and taped leads to the following wires:

White lead wire to Green harness wire = Positive lead on DVM
Black lead wire to Purple harness wire = Negative lead on DVM

Even though the WriteUp was for a BORED OUT THROTTLE BODY, it will STILL WORK for Stock Throttle.

NOTE: Newer RZR models have the Idle Adjustment Screw sealed with wax to prevent tampering with it. They also have a D shaped screw which IS impossible to find a tool to fit in your private tool box:sad:(THERE ARE SOME VENDORS THAT DO SELL IT), but I just used my Dremmel tool and cut a slot/slit in the top of the D screw so it could be moved using a Regular Screwdriver.

WORD OF CAUTION: IF YOU CHANGE THE STOCK IDLE ADJUSTMENT, YOU HAVE MODIFIED THE BENCH AIRFLOW SETUP FROM POLARIS AND MAY HAVE A DIFFICULT OR IMPOSSIBLE TASK, IF YOU TRY TO SET IT BACK TO THE STOCK FLOW.

Best method that I've found for bored out throttle body is:

FORGET the .528 setting mess, that's only applicable for stock throttle body.

Take 2 paperclips, straight one end of each and back probe the TPS on the harness side.
Slide 1 clip beside the GREEN wire on the harness side(or YELLOW if you probe the TPS side). Attach your Positive lead from the Digital Volt meter there.
Slide 1 clip beside the PURPLE wire on the harness side(or BLACK if you probe the TPS side). Attach your Negative lead from the Digital Volt meter
there.
Be careful not to allow the paperclips or either lead to touch each other or any metal.
Set the Digital Volt meter to DC Voltage & turn it on.

A.
Turn the key on, Don't start the engine yet. Write down the voltage reading. Next press the accelerator pedal ALL the way to the floorboard and take the voltage reading there & write it down. This is the WOT(or FULL SWEEP reading) and should be around 3.7 ish to 3.82.

B.
Now start the engine. You want your RPM's to be about 1300 +- 100. If not in that range, turn the idle adjustment screw until you get close to that RPM reading.

NOTE: in making adjustments to the Idle Adjustment screw, you are changing the butterfly and this will affect the TPS reading. AND when you change the TPS, you are changing the Fuel & timing maps(internal in the ECU). The TPS will also alter & change your RPM's.
Also you DO NOT wait the TPS voltage reading to get to .742 cause that's when the ECU changes it's internal fuel map from IDLE to Accelerate mode. If the TPS is TOO high, the ECU gets confused and doesn't know when it's idleing.

C.
You want the TPS voltage reading to be close to .738, so if it's NOT, loosen the screw holding the TPS in place and GENTLY,SLOWLY change the TPS setting to .738. As I said this will affect your RPM's, so now
READJUST the idle adjustment screw to get your RPM's back into range.

D.
You'll need to repeat this process, alternating between TPS setting & Idle Adjustment(RPM) setting until you're REAL close to
1300 RPM's & .738 TPS voltage reading.
I found that when I get the TPS voltage pretty close, say within .735-.739
AND my RPM's are pretty close to 1300, I turn the engine OFF, then just turn the key on, and FINALIZE my TPS voltage setting to .738. With the key still on, but engine not running, carefully tighten the screw holding the TPS. Watch your Digital Volt meter, TOO much pressure & you will move the TPS, so you would have to tweak it in again.
 
#2 ·
Do you recommend setting the idle at 1300 for a reason?
Service manual calls for 1150 +/-100. I know that is not much difference, on the high end, and you were referencing a modified throttle body.
Mine would idle at about 1350 warm, and clutch engagement is 1500. Just seemed too close to engagement for me.
I never had any issues, but being the tinkerer I am, I had to lower the rpms some.
Your instructions are spot on though.

Brian
 
#16 ·
OMGoodness I love these sticky threads......

X1 volt meter
X1 25 Torx driver
X1 8mm wrench to tighten/loosen Idle "screw" (raise RPM)
X1 10mm wrench to tighten/loosen Idle "screw" lock-nut (raise RPM)
X1 Philips driver (to remove throttle cable cam cover)

I swear I was at the VERY end of my rope (ready to hang). After the crank bent on my o8' I rebuilt everything with painstaking detail. Only thing I'd do different is...thanks to newly aquired knowledge, replace the Stator, and maybe powdercoat my engine...

Again I hit the threads & IDK why I did the TPS last, but.......

RZR limped into garage, popping, sputtering, backfiring, stalling, & just plain giving me the finger...

RZR just ripped out of the garage tearing up the mountain hill! WOOOOO!

Edit: running .738 @ 1250 RPMs (engine was .702 @ 950 RPMs)