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Dual Battery Installation

This is a discussion on Dual Battery Installation within the Lighting, Stereo and Electrical forums, part of the Technical category; I thougt I'd share my Dual Battery Installation since this appears to be a common thread lately and perhaps it will be useful for other ...


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  #1  
Old March 16th, 2012, 12:23 PM
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Dual Battery Installation

I thougt I'd share my Dual Battery Installation since this appears to be a common thread lately and perhaps it will be useful for other Forum Members looking to do the same.

My need for a second battery was driven by a few factors:

1) An Alpine 800W 5-Channel Amplifier (mainly driving a 400W-10" sub that draws the most power),
2) A VisionX Lightbar with ten-10W LEDs,
3) A Safeglo 200-LED whip,
4) Two old-style Polaris 35W PIAA halogen lamps,
5) Never needing a jump start after listening to the sound system for extended periods of time.

I considered a single, larger battery (such as an Optima), but chose not to go that route because a), I did not want to cut or modify the battery tray, B) I did not want to chance my (main) starter battery going dead after running accessories for too long.

Deep cycle AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries are a great second battery as they have low internal resistance, are small in size, and are designed for continuous, lower amperage duties such as running a sound system amplifier.

A couple batteries I considered were the:
1) Odyssey 925 (925 cranking amps / 28 Amp-hour),
2) The Kinetik HC800 (950 cranking amps / 36 Amp-hour),
3) And the Shuriken SK-BT35 (950 cranking amps / 35 Amp-hour)

Ultimately, I chose the Shuriken battery due to its affordable cost, size (7-3/4"W x 5-1/4"D x 6-3/4"H), and availability (the Kinetik was my first choice with higher Amp-hours, however, it was not available when I started my project).

Here is a picture of the Shuriken battery mounted in the storage compartment under the driver's seat:


This close-up picture shows the 1/4"-20 threaded rod I used to hold the battery in place. The rod is covered with PET Expandable sleeving that is available at Fry's or similar electronics outlets (I use this stuff to cover all my wiring along with short pieces of heat shrink at either end). The battery is also held in place (fore/aft, side-side) using heavy duty velcro on the under-side (available in 2" wide strips at Lowe's). The threaded rod is installed between the seat-frame rails.


To obtain the highest reliability of a two battery system, some type of battery isolator must be used. There are several types of isolators that can be used, from a simple relay / contactor (example, Stinger SGP32) that closes when the ignition key is on, to electronic units that keep the batteries electrically separate via a set of diodes or MOSFET design.

A hybrid version of these two types of battery isolators is one that electronically monitors the battery and charging system voltages, and closes only when the charging system voltage is above a pre-set level (say, 13.3V on your main battery) and opens whenever the charging system drops below a pre-set level (say, 12.7V when you're idling or running at low RPMs).

AOPEC makes just such a device for UTV's ATV/UTV Dual Battery Kit | Smart Battery Isolator. Here is a picture of where I mounted my AOPEC isolator (in the tray just below the ECU):


Another close-up picture:


The final aspect of my dual battery installation was to add a 65 Amp six-position fuse block . All of my new accessories were wired through this new fuse block, leaving all the original Polaris wiring intact on the main battery. A wiring diagram of my accessories is shown below:


As for where I picked-up the input for the AOPEC Battery Isolator, I came off the input side of the starter solenoid with #6 wire. This provided a larger termination for the #6 lug and is closest to output of the Voltage Regulator without having to install a wire all the way to the regulator. It's the the BRIGHT RED wire in the photo below.


I added two blocks of wood (painted black) cut to match the shape of the support steel between the inner and outer frame rails. The blocks rest on the aluminum skid plate and are screwed to the bottom of the storage bin. The Shuiken battery weighs about 24Lbs, so I wanted to make sure the plastic storage bin wouldn't crack under the additional weight.


Aluminum skid plate lowered for better view (yes, tacky wood - but at least it's painted):


Finally, I have a pigtail for my trickle charger while at camp. Though it looks like the wires are touching the underside of the driver's seat frame in this picture, they are not (I believe this clearance is known as an RCH).


So far, my new battery has provided 2+ hours of listening to music at a moderate volume before the battery voltage dipped below 12.0V. The stock (starter) battery typically maintains adequate charge with normal riding, and the auxilliary battery only charges when the main battery and charging system is operating above 13.3V. This has been very reliable for our duning night rides and daytime music listening.

For information on my sound system installation, check out this link:
http://www.rzrforums.net/lighting-st...d-install.html
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Last edited by nvpowerdoc; May 22nd, 2012 at 07:01 PM.
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  #2  
Old March 16th, 2012, 01:06 PM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

Thank you for sharing and having good photos and details of the build.
I for one appreciate the effort helps people like me that are sitting on the fence on how to do such things.
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  #3  
Old March 16th, 2012, 01:23 PM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

Thanks and no problem!

I sat on this project for almost two years before finishing it. I ran my amp on the stock size battery for quite some time and only ran into jump-start issues twice (even though once was enough). Our group spends a lot of time at Dumont's Comp Hill in the evenings and I wanted a more reliable system. The battery compartment was starting to look really bad once I added a light bar and whip - there were loose fuses and wiring all over. I'm a lot more happy with the clean installation and the right type of battery isolator now.

Good luck with your install should you go this route.
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Old March 16th, 2012, 02:09 PM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

Can you post a picture of were you tied it on your starter
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Old March 16th, 2012, 02:20 PM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

Quote: Originally Posted by MNrzrRider View Post
Can you post a picture of were you tied it on your starter
MNrzrRider - I updated the wiring diagram picture. If you click on it, it takes you to my Gallery where (if you click on it again) you get a really big blow-up of the diagram. There's not much to see on the Starter Solenoid, other than the addition of one #6 lug that goes to the AOPEC battery isolator.

I'll have to take another picture of the Solenoid specifically... here it is:
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Last edited by nvpowerdoc; March 16th, 2012 at 02:27 PM.
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Old March 16th, 2012, 02:49 PM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

Thanks for the pic. I have had the same setup in the garage for a couple weeks but have not had the time to put it on. Got the idea from one of your early post so this new post is right on que. Have a couple days to get started. I need all the help i can get on the wiring side of things. Do you know if there is any way to put switch in to use both batterys for starting? I run Fusion in dash boat stereo with built in ipod holder 600 watt amp 400 amp kicker wake board speakers piaa lights two ten inch light bars and hid plus gps so i have power drain.
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Old March 16th, 2012, 02:52 PM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

Also is the red wire off the soleniod going to Aopek? Trying to figure witch lug to tie to.
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Old March 16th, 2012, 02:58 PM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

Ok i scrolled up and got my answer on the red wire.
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Old March 16th, 2012, 03:23 PM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

Quote: Originally Posted by MNrzrRider View Post
Also is the red wire off the soleniod going to Aopek? Trying to figure witch lug to tie to.
The red wire (that looks pink) with the plastic boot pulled back goes from the starter solenoid to the Main Battery. The red wire (that looks orange) goes from the starter solenoid to the AOPEC isolator. The two blue wires (on the same lug where the boot is pulled back) are fuse-links from the voltage regulator. The black wire (on the same lug where the boot is pulled back) is also a fuse-link and goes to the main Polaris electrical system. I would call this side of the starter solenoid the "input" or common (+) positive terminal. The other large terminal on the starter solenoid is the output which when the solenoid is closed goes to your starter. The two smaller terminals on the solenoid are from the key-switch so when you turn the key to start the engine voltage is applied to these smaller terminals (the coil).

I'm not really sure why you might want to parallel the two batteries together to start the RZR's engine. The whole reason to isolate the two batteries is to ensure your starter battery never goes dead (part of why the AOPEC isolator has different cut-in / cut-out voltages). The main battery will always charge first before the aux battery charges.

There have been multiple thread discussions elsewhere on the Forum about the main battery discharging into the aux battery if the two have differing voltages (which WILL happen if one is discharged more than the other). However, a voltage controlled isolator with differing cut-in / cut-out voltages will ensure the charging system voltage on the main battery will never be allowed to drop below 12.7V (otherwise the isolator opens). Once that happens, the charging system on the Main battery must achieve 13.3V before the isolator will close again.

The stator on the 2009 RZR-s makes about 300W at 3500+ RPM. That's roughly 22A at 13.3V. I have found this to be sufficient to keep the main battery charged for normal driving conditions (headlights on, even during the day) while providing a charge to AUX battery once the Main battery is topped off. The worst offender for continuous amp draw in my system is the 100W LED light bar. Even so, I've yet to experience any problems with voltage on either battery (I've been checking with a volt meter, just to see).

If you're concerned about have the option to parallel the batteries, I have seen someone on the Forum (see second post on this LINK) using a voltage controlled switch / isolator (you might want to ping "olddognewtrick" where he got his switch). If it was me, I might just throw a short piece of wire (say #10, 8, or 6) with alligator clips on both ends in my storage bin up-front. I don't think you're going to need it though...
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Last edited by nvpowerdoc; March 16th, 2012 at 03:34 PM.
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Old March 16th, 2012, 03:35 PM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

Quote: Originally Posted by MNrzrRider View Post
Ok i scrolled up and got my answer on the red wire.
Yeah, it took a while to fix the post and respond.

Good luck!
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Old March 16th, 2012, 06:31 PM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

The reason i ask about using both batterys at start is i use for i use in winter here in northern minnesota. Are sub zero weather zaps battery charge. That said i like just the alligator clip jumper idea.. Thanks so much for the detailed post i think i might get it hooked up with out frying any thing.
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Old March 16th, 2012, 06:38 PM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

awesome thread. great tips. thanks for sharing
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Old March 16th, 2012, 07:13 PM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

nvpowerdoc nice job on the pictures and the battery info, I am impressed but I guess I should expect it from someone from the great city of Las Vegas.
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Old March 17th, 2012, 04:57 AM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

How much was the battery you used? I was set to buy an odyssey 925....but now don't know.
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Old March 17th, 2012, 06:29 AM
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Re: Dual Battery Installation

Nice job! i did a very similar set up, even used the same fuse block but put mine under the dash next to the stock one. I aslo used the same isolator. Pic is of my set up its an Odyssey 925 on its side with oem YUSA battery next to it. Both are mounted in an aftermarket battery tray and i fabbed a bracket for the isolator.

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