Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Owasso, Oklahoma
Re: Driveshaft removal
Before you remove the shaft make sure your drive shaft shop can even balance it. I broke the weld on the rear yolk ( 2 weeks out of warranty and it was clearly a bad weld and not abuse ). It was easy to remove without that piece attached but did not go back in so easy. My local shop put in better tubing than factory but they did not have the correct splines to balance. I thought that was odd, but anyway I do not notice it being a problem. Also be patient with the role pin when you are driving it out - I used a 1/4 long extension with a tiny socket on the end that was a little smaller than the roll pin after soaking it all with PBblaster. Bottom line, if you don't have some serious vibration in that shaft I would find a better mod to spend your time on.
2011 800 50" LE Nuclear Orange. Factory UTV Full Skid package, RacerTech Lift and Springs, Viper Winch, EMP Bumper, 26" BigHorns on ITP HD2, Kolpin Full Vented Windshield & EMP Cooter Brown Roof.