I bought the one from Universal Parts Inc. They told me THE ONLY one that will work with EPS, is the kit with defrost. It's $409 for the kit, since I had them plug the defrost outlet, because I didn't want defrost vents. That saved me $20.
I just installed it 2 days ago. The directions are worse than the ones that came with my Super ATV power steering kit! It's definitely more involved than the way they advertise it. Once it was installed, it worked great though!
A little advice if you buy one from Universal Parts Inc...
When you take it out of the box, grab the heater core in&out tubes, and move around a bit. You should notice it appears the heater core came loose during shipping. Upon closer examination, you'll discover the ONLY thing holding the aluminum core to the whole assembly, is the rubber grommets that are slipped around the in&out tubes! WTH???
After I disassembled mine, I used some extra heavy duty foam rubber that has adhesive on one side. I wrapped the top and bottom tanks, and was able to place a 5" piece of 5/8" heater hose on each side of the core, between the core, and the housing. that holds the core in place very nicely. The way it was shipped, the aluminum core was laying against the steel expanded metal that was essentially a cheese grater, ready to ruin the core after a day of whoops!
Luckily the lack of design on how they mounted their core, led me to believe there would be some more poor design(s) ahead. They didn't disappoint! It is IMPOSSIBLE to mount the unit and insert the 2 bolts on the passenger's side, UNLESS YOU DRILL ACCESS HOLES IN THE UPPER SIDE OF YOUR GLOVE BOX! There is no mention of this in the directions! It is in a real booger of a spot, so plan on people within hearing distance to get a good earful from you! I covered the holes with a piece of black duct tape after installation.
The first thing I did was grind the 2 bolts to a point on the threaded ends. This is so when you're moving the heater unit around, and pushing the bolt in as you turn it, it will self align to find the threaded hole in the heater unit. I also placed the bolt in the socket, then wrapped masking tape around the flanged bolt head and socket to hold it in place. I also taped the socket to the extension, so when you go to pull the socket off, the socket says on the extension.
Now... if you hold your bottom lip just right, and work through a couple of hand cramps, you should be able to get the bolts in! The driver's side is a piece of cake, but you'll need longer bolts because although this kit is for power steering units, they don't make the bolts long enough to go through the EPS, and the heater! Go figure... D'oh!
If you can make heads or tails out of their directions as to where to drill the holes for the heater hoses, you're a better mechanic than me! I found it was best to mount the heater, then place masking tape in the area I thought the holes would be.
Then I used a piece of 5/8" hose, about 6" long that I slid onto the heater tubes, then slid back until they were against the firewall. I made sure they looked like a straight shot, then I used a pen to trace around the hoses, onto the manilla masking tape I put on the BLACK firewall. Now you get to remove the heater again, so you can drill the 1 3/8" holes. Don't worry, it gets easier to put in the passenger side bolts by repetition...
Myself, I cut off the power lead at the fuse, and extended the wire to where I have a fused distribution box on the front of the firewall. I also ran a wire from the power accessory lead to the same box. That now activates a relay that turns the whole box on and off with the key, and doesn't overload that circuit. I don't want to ever pull that heater out again if I can help it!
Personally, I didn't drain my radiator to splice into the hoses. I used 3 radiator pinch off pliers. One on each side of where I made my cut into the factory hose, and one I put on the 5/8" heater hose itself. Once I did the first one, I left the heater hose one in place, and moved the other two, to each side of where I made my second cut. There was very little coolant loss this way.
Personally, I feel the way they show you to install the "Y fittings" into the factory hoses is backwards. I think it's a mistake they way they drew it. I installed mine 180 degrees different than what they show on the picture in the directions. The way I did it looks "hydro-dynamic"
I started my RZR, and once the thermostat opened, I pinched the return hose with my pinch off pliers, between the "Y adapter" and the radiator for a couple of minutes. This forced the coolant to go through the heater, and then head back to the engine, bypassing the radiator.
This way I knew I bled the air out of the heater core. The way the "Y adapters" are tapped into the factory hoses, you could get air trapped in the core, and not get the full effect of the heater. A lot of newer vehicles have air bleed screws to get trapped air out of the cooling systems. This method worked really well for me!
Before summer gets here, I'll come up with some sort of hose shut off valve. I don't want water running through the heater core, convecting heat into the cab, even though the blower isn't on. I have Freightliner & Peterbuilt valves that look nice, but I'd like to find one that turns off BOTH sides of the core. I just need to go to the parts house on a slow day, and browse a bit.
I hope this helps someone out a bit...