The project begins!
I took off the bed, exhaust, and air filter. I will probably work on the install this weekend and will post more pictures and info next week.

I'll be watching and taking notes

Jason

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2009 RZR S MCX Big Bore and Turbo
2010 RZR 4 (stock because I promised the wife not mod it...... I'm teaching my son how to turn wrenches )
2006 Raptor 700
2000 Honda Foreman (old trusty)

If this works for ya, I'm right behind ya.

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Tri-Cities Off Road
Talktwoway.net

Can't wait to see some more pics of the process! I am starting in on my here in a couple of weeks, so any advice you might have after the install would be greatly appreciated!

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MCX-USA, Turbo Kit, Tuning Display, Crankworks 40cc Billet Stroker Crank with Billet Rods - Dirty Dawg Performance, Cam, Dynatech Controller and Adjustable Clutch Kit - UMP, Custom Turbo Intake Canister UTV Crap, Crow H Style Harnesses, Billet Side Mirrors and lowered seat bases - RZRHQ, Black Maier Plastics, Vented Hood, ATR Solid Shift Kit, ATR Complete Chassis Stiffener Kit, ATR Billet OS Handle and GoPro Hero - LSR, Custom Cage with Half Doors, +8 XTR Suspension System, HD axles, HD Tie Rods and Fox 2.0 Shox - HPD, Motor Mounts - Dynamic Racing, Ported & Polished Head with 1mm oversized stainless steel valves, Ferrea Titanium Retainers and PAC Beehive Springs - CP, Custom 31 cc Dish Pistons with Teflon Coated Skirts and Ceramic Coated Tops - Holz Racing, Billet Intake Manifold, Billet Front Roller Cage, Billet Front Pinion Flange, Anti-Friction Washer, Adjustable Oil Pressure Regulator, Pre-Runner Front Bumper and Full Skid Plate System - Pit Bull Tires, 25.5'' Rockers

http://www.rzrforums.net/garage/1000

2009 RZR-S aka Darth RZR - 103rwhp
2008 Black on Black F250 - 560rwhp
2002 Black on Black Z06 - 430rwhp

I did some of the engine tear down after work today. (The first step is to install the shim in the engine). This appears to be the step a lot of people, myself included, are concerned about doing themselves. We will see how it goes...

The RZR shop manual is definately needed for reference, in my case, and should be downloaded and read before work is done. The steps I am listing are general and do not include all the details such as what bolts to take out first etc.

Edit: The 2009 RZR / RZR-S shop manual is now available in PDF thanks to other forum members. Right click to "save as": http://docs.extremerzr.com/docs/pola...cemanual09.pdf

TIP: Before you take the engine apart, take off the clutch cover. You may need to manually turn the primary clutch to rotate the crank and get the pistons in the right position.

I disconnected the engine coolant hoses from the engine and plugged them. Then I pumped most of the coolant out of the engine with a small hand pump. Coolant still spills everywhere and I am glad I put down a tarp before I started.

Remove the valve cover (7 bolts):



Remove the rocker arms and push rods (bag and tag with location, as they have to go back in original location):



Remove the cylinder head bolts
TIP: You will need a 14mm 12point socket to take these out and retork on install.
12 point sockets can be hard to find. I bought one at Sears.



Remove the head. Depending on your piston position, this is how the cylinders look:
It looks like there is some carbon build up on the piston heads already...



I was surprised to learn that both pistons move up and down in the same direction at the same time, instead of opposite directions. You learn a lot when you tear these things apart!

Thats all for today. More to come...

nice so far... can you take a close up of the top of pistons, valve area on head and the cyl walls see how the cyl is holding up.....thanks

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lots of toy's
http://www.makintraxsuspension.com/

Both pistons move in the same direction at the same time?.......WOW I'm suprised........
I don't know chit about motors so I'm not sure why I am surprised , just seems like there
would be less stress on the crank if they moved in opposite directions............

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Nice!

don't forget the tips a post on the thread! you won't regret

Be sure to Heat wrap your Blue Silicone tube at the inter-cooler
and the header pipe........ I learned the hard way that the heat off the header will burn the Silicone tube.......

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Thanks for the advice Giff.
I have heard about this issue and saw your thread with that picture of the wrap job you did on your exhaust.
The blue charge tube that goes from the turbo to the intercooler does sit very close to the engine head and exhaust.
The tube currently comes with a small heat shield from MCX. I wonder if this will be sufficient?...

This is what I put on my on my blue charge tube......I didn't get one like yours, mine was unprotected. Thats why I put this High Temp sleeve on its good to 1200 Degrees and its only $20. Cheap enough.......Under load that header will glow red. I used standard heat wrap from NAPA on the header ...... here ya go.........Heatshield Products Thermal Hose Sleeving

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I haven't see the install guide since I did mine ,

Here is some tips for you:

Is better to install the new oil dipstick before the spacer since there is more room to work.

The oil nipple also need to be install while the cylinder is out.


Hope this help out...

I like how the sleeve you put on protects the entire length of the charge tube. For $20 that is a good upgrade. I will have to order one.
Thanks!



EDIT: Before proceeding with the next step and using the same method I did to install the shim, another better method should be considered. After learning from my mistakes and trying the other method, other forum members are having less trouble installing the cylinder by leaving the pistons in the cylinder and removing the wrist pins that hold the piston heads to the rods.

Here is a picture posted by milosusa showing this method:



He used some O-Ring tools to remove the circlips that lock the wrist pins into the piston heads:



This method seems to be the better of the two options described below.
I used the harder option because I didn't know how to get the circlips out of the piston heads... Now that milosusa has educated us, you get the benefit of this new information before you start your build! Thanks Milosusa!

End of edit

Back to the build:

After removing the head you pull the cylinder block.
Here is what you will have when the pistons are in the down position:



And in the up position:



I took Dogo X's advice and installed the new dipstick and oil supply line while the head cylinder block was removed:



EDIT: After finding a washer with a rubber seal in the parts bag and consulting MCX, I learned that this washer is installed on the adapter for the oil supply line. Here is how that end of the assembly installs:



End of edit.

After a little cleanup, you are now ready to install the shim.
You need more than both hands to do the next step, so I didn't take any pictures.

It is my understanding that there are two methods of reinstalling the cylinder block on top of the shim:

Option 1: Remove the heads of the pistons by pulling the retaining clip and pin, installing the pistons into the cylinder block, then holding the cylinder block with the piston heads inside it above the engine, reinstall the pins and clips that connect the piston heads to the rods, and set the cylinder block down on the shim. (Don't drop the clips down into the engine if you choose this method. Cover the engine cavity with a towel to catch anything you drop.)

Option 2: Leave the piston heads on the rods, hold the cylinder block above the engine and feed the piston heads into it by compressing the piston rings and slide the cylinder block down on the shim.

I tried to pull one of the clips that holds the pin into the piston head, but didn't have any success. Maybe it requires a special tool or "know how" that I don't have. So I abandoned option #1 and went with option #2. You will need an extra set of hands, or two, for this step. I had one helper (thanks Don!)

I sprayed the shim with copper coat.
Tip: This is something that does not currently come in the kit so you will need to get it at your local auto supply store.
Link to Permatex product: Permatex


EDIT: VERY IMPORTANT! LET THE COPPER COAT SET UP BEFORE INSTALLING THE SHIM (This may take SEVERAL hours, depending on your ambiant temp and humidity). READ THIS WHOLE THREAD AND YOU WILL SEE WHY!
End of edit.

Once both sides of the shim are prepared, install it on the engine and procede with the sequence described in option #1 or #2 above, I chose #2.
The hardest part of the cylinder block installation is compressing the piston rings on both pistons at the same time and getting both of them to slide back into the cylinder block. I don't think I could have done it alone. It took about 5 minutes with two of us working on it, but we got everything lined up and slid into place without causing any damage (that I know of).

Once the cylinder block is in place the rest of the engine assebly is easy.
Install the new head gasket and the head and just reverse the process of taking the head off following the torque requirements as shown in the service manual. After the valve cover is back on, it looks like this again:

sweet!!!!!!!

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lots of toy's
http://www.makintraxsuspension.com/