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Changing a Water Pump Seal

This is a discussion on Changing a Water Pump Seal within the Engine and Drivetrain forums, part of the Technical category; Today I just changed my 3rd water pump seal. I'm guessing that mud just eats them son of a bitches up. My first one I ...


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Old May 17th, 2012, 08:11 PM
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Changing a Water Pump Seal

Today I just changed my 3rd water pump seal. I'm guessing that mud just eats them son of a bitches up. My first one I sunk in a mud hole, second i was at about a 60 degree angle with the wife in a hole, third one I don't have a clue but there was grit and shit up behind the seal. After the first I realized these rzr's aren't honda foremans so I've tried to avoid it all costs, that's how I ended on the side in a hole with a buddy hanging on the side.

Anywho, I've had 3 people call me and about 20 others pm me because for some reason they think I'm know what i'm doing, haha, I just like to drink and ride. Anyhow, I've gotton tired of typing on the phone, on the computer and what not trying to help out and decided to do a little write-up with pics. I don't mind helping out at all, just this may reach more people and help a little bit more with pics. Blackbart did a great write up on this but it was with the engine pulled and taken apart, I have zero desire on doing that again.

First off a little common sence, Raise the rear of the rzr as high as you can get it and remove the rear tire. This will keep you from losing a lot of coolant. Then pull your tire off. Remove the coolant hose and jam a screwdriver handle into it then tie it off high up. This will keep the from losing too much coolant. Next remove the 7 bolts that hold the cover on and pull the cover off. You will lose coolant while doing these 2 steps so have a drain pan ready or let it run in the drive, doesn't matter too much to me either way. Go ahead and remove the cover and set it to the side.

The following pic is where you should be at. I have already removed it at this pic but there is a 7/16" nut that holds on the impellor there. You'll need to pull the impellor off.



After that you'll have a flat black seal to remove on the outside, just pull it off. Next there is a contraption with a spring on it, there will be a little resistance but just grag it with needle nose pliers and pull that sucker off.





Next I used a short handle screwdriver and slowly and carefully pried back the copper piece that is sealed to the block wall with a little blue stuff. Work the copper pice away all the way around, you'll need the edge of it to grab to pull the seal out. I'm sure a brass screwdriver would work great without scratching, but I guess I didn't have one.



I used a pair of needle nose vise grip pliers. You'll want to slowly work the copper seal out and work it a little at a time all the way around, be paitiet, it'll come out.





Once the seal is out clean all the crap out, I used wd-40 and a pic set like what you would find in a dental office to get in the tight spaces. Next step I've read about others using a grease zert and taking the ball out to hook a rubber hose to it to help keep crap out so I decided to do this. I used the smallest pushin type and used a drill to drill into the weep hole, just big enough to get the zert in. I also used a bit to waller out the zert to allow coolant/oil to flow out easier if it is needed. Then I just knocked it in with a hammer.

After cleaning out shaving and grime it was time to install the new seal. I used a 32mm socket and it fits perfect over the new water pump seal and slowly drove it in with a hammer. Use care to tap it in evenly to keep from damaging it.



When you drive it in you need to pull the flat black seal off. When you put the black piece in make sure you put the side with the grooves out. Your pump seal will leak if it is in backwards i've been told. This side out.



Next just put on the impellor with the blades visible and properly torque down the nut that holds it on. Then you're ready to put the cover back on.



Put the cover back on and do not grease or oil the seal. I think the torque for the cover bolts is 96 inch pounds but I won't swear to it though. Make sure to follow the torque sequencing pattern for the cover. In case you haven't made an effort to download a service manual here is a pic of the tightening pattern.



Once you are done with that just refill your coolant and bleed all air out of your system and hopefully you'll be ready for some cold beer and good hills again.

Thanks to Swingarm1 for giving me some guidance to my first pump seal. I may have left something out, if so or any suggestions please pipe in.

DISCLAIMER: This is how I did it on my RZR. It may or may not work on yours. I am not responsible for your ride if it breaks.
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Last edited by chipper; May 17th, 2012 at 08:44 PM. Reason: I hit submit instead of preview!
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  #2  
Old May 17th, 2012, 08:28 PM
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Re: Changing a Water Pump Seal

Just a thought have you flushed the cooling system my son had the same problem we flushed the system andhave had no other problems
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Old May 17th, 2012, 08:48 PM
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Re: Changing a Water Pump Seal

Quote: Originally Posted by rzrider50 View Post
Just a thought have you flushed the cooling system my son had the same problem we flushed the system andhave had no other problems
I actually flushed everything about a 3 months ago when I had to replace the bendix. I've not had any coolant issues/geling or anything. I think I just have a early Monday morning machine after cinco de mayo.
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Old May 17th, 2012, 08:59 PM
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Re: Changing a Water Pump Seal

I just did mine. Took me awhile to figure it out. I always find the how to's after I do it LOL. Only thing I did different was to flush the system and put in new coolant. My first one lasted 1400 miles. Never had a problem till I got in some really nasty mud. Didn't last long after that. Well that and the circuit breaker going out and getting it hot.I went ahead and replaced the impeller too. Seal is expensive, impeller and new rubber gasket were cheap.
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Old May 17th, 2012, 09:13 PM
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Re: Changing a Water Pump Seal

Good luck
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Old May 18th, 2012, 12:28 AM
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Re: Changing a Water Pump Seal

Nice job and good clear photos
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Old May 24th, 2012, 08:54 PM
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Texas Re: Changing a Water Pump Seal

These are called mechanical seals in the firefighting world and are identical to many of the carbon type mechanical seals found on fire pumps and a lot of our hydrocarbon pumps in the refinery. I just wanted to share this bit of info many a fire pump operator has learned the hard way. If you ever get one overheated to the point where the water inside the pump steams off, when water hits the seal again, and its hot, they tend to fracture and will start to leak. Fire pumps will do it in a matter of minutes with no water flow but rzr's. . I don't think it would be so easy to gas off the pump but if you got one hot enough, it might.
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Old May 24th, 2012, 09:25 PM
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Re: Changing a Water Pump Seal

Nice write up.....Swingarm1 walked me through mine too!

He also laughed...asked me if I was dumb......lol


Never a problem since.
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Old May 24th, 2012, 09:27 PM
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Re: Changing a Water Pump Seal

Im on my 3rd seal in a year now. Im a mudder and was wondering if there is any way of modifying this to prevent it from occuring so often??
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Old May 24th, 2012, 09:40 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by dsmracing1 View Post
Im on my 3rd seal in a year now. Im a mudder and was wondering if there is any way of modifying this to prevent it from occuring so often??
I'm not a mudders but also on my third seal. I got a little drunk during the write up and kinda left an area blank. I out a wollered out zert in the weep hole and ran a 2'piece of clear rubber hose from it and around. I'll do a pic of it, if it doesn't show good I'll do another later. Reason for this is to make the dirt/mud flow all the way up this tube before it reaches the seal. I've read it works so we will see what happens.

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Old May 24th, 2012, 09:44 PM
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Re: Changing a Water Pump Seal

Quote: Originally Posted by chipper View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by dsmracing1 View Post
Im on my 3rd seal in a year now. Im a mudder and was wondering if there is any way of modifying this to prevent it from occuring so often??
I'm not a mudders but also on my third seal. I got a little drunk during the write up and kinda left an area blank. I out a wollered out zert in the weep hole and ran a 2'piece of clear rubber hose from it and around. I'll do a pic of it, if it doesn't show good I'll do another later. Reason for this is to make the dirt/mud flow all the way up this tube before it reaches the seal. I've read it works so we will see what happens.

Awesome! that would be really cool if you could take a few more pics and explain how you did this. I would also like to try this setup. Thanks, Cam.
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Old May 24th, 2012, 09:53 PM
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Re: Changing a Water Pump Seal

Bruce, did your seal fail AFTER the relay quit, and the fan wasn't working? Sounds like coolant temps got off scale high and trashed the seal. Isn't the seal located in a completely sealed area of the engine?
Chip's problems also started post mudding. Chip, was your cooling system functioning properly? I'm at 3800 miles, and ride in some nasty stuff, but my fan keeps on running, and I check my rad fins constantly when in the muck.
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Old May 24th, 2012, 10:02 PM
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Re: Changing a Water Pump Seal

Also on the new seal a tiny dab of grease helps to protect it for a few sec till the water gets to it
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Old May 24th, 2012, 10:18 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by RMR Man View Post
Bruce, did your seal fail AFTER the relay quit, and the fan wasn't working? Sounds like coolant temps got off scale high and trashed the seal. Isn't the seal located in a completely sealed area of the engine?
Chip's problems also started post mudding. Chip, was your cooling system functioning properly? I'm at 3800 miles, and ride in some nasty stuff, but my fan keeps on running, and I check my rad fins constantly when in the muck.
First pump seal was after i buried in mud, second seal I laid passenger side in mud, third lasted 5 months and not sure why it went out. I've had a couple cooling issues and its lined out also, only once was from dirty radiator and I never let it get to shutting down temps then.

The setup I used is a small push in type grease zert. I ground the end off to let the spring and ball come out. Then I wollered out the hole a bit with about an ⅛" bit. I knocked the zert in and ran the 2" bit of hose so that water can't run into the seal. I've read that others actually tapped it to screw in a zert like this but the push in type is easier.

Oh ya, the grease in the hole never has worked well for me Johnny, others swear by it but not for me.
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Old May 25th, 2012, 08:52 PM
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Re: Changing a Water Pump Seal

I would keep a eye on the tube if it plugs the water will go in the engine
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