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Failed connecting rods

This is a discussion on Failed connecting rods within the Engine and Drivetrain forums, part of the Technical category; In another post Chris mentioned failed connecting rods. I didn't want to hijack the post too bad, so starting a new thread. Not seeing much ...


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  #1  
Old March 15th, 2011, 09:08 AM
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Failed connecting rods

In another post Chris mentioned failed connecting rods. I didn't want to hijack the post too bad, so starting a new thread. Not seeing much on the topic....

Quote: Originally Posted by bioaction2 View Post
I twisted mine [crank reference] at 10 psi with the stock limiter. Then I had a connecting rod break on a pinned crank at 11 psi with stock limiter and it destroyed the whole engine. Now I have a billet crank standard bore running 12 psi for now and it rips.
Chris, What are you saying the the relationship between the original pinned crank vs. the billet crank in regards to your connecting rod failure? Is there something about the pinned crank that allowed the rods to fail? Not seeing the relationship.

What is the proposed solution here, aside from a billet crank? Are there any better connecting rods I should be considering while she's split open? -Just want to be able to safely run the RPMs up in the future without rod failure on my mind. Can't even turn up the RPMs on a '11 at this point, but somebody will offer something at some point.

Likely the answer is "don't worry about it", but just checkin'
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Last edited by FunRide; March 15th, 2011 at 09:20 AM. Reason: crank reference
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  #2  
Old March 15th, 2011, 01:12 PM
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Re: Failed connecting rods

Not an attempt to hijack but a point of clarification... I cannot see, in any pics/diagrams in the svc man. or elsewhere, that there are "end caps" on the crank end of the con rods on this engine. Am I just not seeing views where they are visible or are the rods slipped on over the rod bearing surface prior to pressing the crank together on assembly. If that is the case then I assume that a billet crank would use upgraded rods being that they would by necessity be included as part of the crank assembly when purchased. Along that same vein of thought, then, if I would break a con rod on a stocker, then I would have to by a new crank assembly to replace it (short of splitting the crank apart to put on a new one)

Scratching my head here!!!
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  #3  
Old March 15th, 2011, 02:47 PM
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Re: Failed connecting rods

Quote: Originally Posted by rardoin View Post
Not an attempt to hijack but a point of clarification... I cannot see, in any pics/diagrams in the svc man. or elsewhere, that there are "end caps" on the crank end of the con rods on this engine. Am I just not seeing views where they are visible or are the rods slipped on over the rod bearing surface prior to pressing the crank together on assembly. If that is the case then I assume that a billet crank would use upgraded rods being that they would by necessity be included as part of the crank assembly when purchased. Along that same vein of thought, then, if I would break a con rod on a stocker, then I would have to by a new crank assembly to replace it (short of splitting the crank apart to put on a new one)

Scratching my head here!!!
Not sure Robin. Haven't got that far in my break down, or thought that far ahead yet Somebody who knows will chime in, Moto, Milos, Bart, HighOctane, or Cliff. -Good question though and completely relevant.
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Old March 15th, 2011, 03:39 PM
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Re: Failed connecting rods

Good question! Pass me some popcorn, I'm gonna learn a thing or three...
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Old March 15th, 2011, 04:14 PM
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Re: Failed connecting rods

you can not get the stock rods off the stock crank or can anyone els the only thing to do if you do not want to have to ever think about the crank again is to buy the crank work one alot bigger rods and roller bearings billet crank
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Old March 15th, 2011, 08:51 PM
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Re: Failed connecting rods

What is the proposed solution here, aside from a billet crank? Are there any better connecting rods I should be considering while she's split open? -Just want to be able to safely run the RPMs up in the future without rod failure on my mind. Can't even turn up the RPMs on a '11 at this point, but somebody will offer something at some point

Supper puppy is right, you cant service the rods on a stock crank, therefore you wont gain much by pinning the crank. You should just bite the bullet and build it with the billet crank.
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Old March 15th, 2011, 09:10 PM
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Re: Failed connecting rods

Quote: Originally Posted by FunRide View Post
In another post Chris mentioned failed connecting rods. I didn't want to hijack the post too bad, so starting a new thread. Not seeing much on the topic....

Quote: Originally Posted by bioaction2 View Post
I twisted mine [crank reference] at 10 psi with the stock limiter. Then I had a connecting rod break on a pinned crank at 11 psi with stock limiter and it destroyed the whole engine. Now I have a billet crank standard bore running 12 psi for now and it rips.
Chris, What are you saying the the relationship between the origiHxnal pinned crank vs. the billet crank in regards to your connecting rod failure? Is there something about the pinned crank that allowed the rods to fail? Not seeing the relationship.

What is the proposed solution here, aside from a billet crank? Are there any better connecting rods I should be considering while she's split open? -Just want to be able to safely run the RPMs up in the future without rod failure on my mind. Can't even turn up the RPMs on a '11 at this point, but somebody will offer something at some point.

Likely the answer is "don't worry about it", but just checkin'
Just saying the connecting rod is the next weak link. And 200.00 to pin and weld yours looks good compared to 1,800.00-2,000.00 for a billet crank. but in reality it's the down time that's not replacable so if your trying to decide what to do. Just think what it would be like to not have a ride next time all your buddies go out to play.
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Old March 16th, 2011, 08:37 AM
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Re: Failed connecting rods

Quote: Originally Posted by 35bansheerider View Post
Supper puppy is right, you cant service the rods on a stock crank, therefore you wont gain much by pinning the crank. You should just bite the bullet and build it with the billet crank.
Thanks for the replies.

Driving time is precious, but I think I'm going to run pin/weld under 7K for now with factory gear. If I determine I need more boost and RPM, I will rip it apart again and start over. Could do it in half the time next go around and have the parts pre-staged. If I had the parts, I could completely rebuild this engine in a long weekend. -This is all providing I don't break a rod at 6300-6500 RMP at 11lbs of boost and destroy its guts. Going to roll the dice and hope
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Last edited by FunRide; March 16th, 2011 at 08:47 AM.
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Old March 16th, 2011, 09:17 AM
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Re: Failed connecting rods

Look on EBAY, you can buy just the replacement connecting rods and yes there are companies out there that can take apart a stock crankshaft from a rzr and replace rods, but for the price I would just buy the hotrods replacement stock stroke crankshaft??? mpo....
I looked on ebay under rzr hot rod... also rzr crank for rebuilt stock crank...
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